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zookr · New Member

Interested in viewing others experiences/expertise w/this fun hobby.
Would like to learn how to adjust trigger pull to a lighter setting -
Gamo Shadow 1000

Great winter indoor fun -

Bob La Londe · Veteran Member

Mentolio · Veteran Member

My experience with similar trigger systems is that the adjustment screw effects the trigger thus: it either makes the pull shorter and heavier, OR longer and (only marginally) lighter. Neither is a great combination in my opinion. You could try a "washer mod," which I currently have on my Crosman. I have installed a brass bushing which takes up much of the slack/travel in the trigger, and removed a tension spring, which lightened the pull somewhat. You can also replace the trigger with a CDT trigger, which is supposed to dramatically change the trigger function for the better, and actually make the trigger truly adjustable. Either mod is completed in short order with minimal tools and headache (though the "washer mod" will require some experimentation to get it right-ish). Either mod can be found being demonstrated on YouTube, just be careful when/if you do it. The first few times I closed the barrel on my Hatsan after installing a Welsh Willie trigger, it went off! Took a bit of adjustment to get it right. Best of luck, and welcome to the forum!

zookr · New Member

Would this necessitate a visit to a local gunsmith?

Mentolio · Veteran Member

Nope, just search the mods online and on YouTube. Trigger replacement is easier, stock trigger modification is free (or at least very cheap). Just point rifle in a safe direction the first few times you cock it, to make sure it doesn't fire when you close the breach.

zookr · New Member

Have found this article (below) - besides also the heavier, copper coated .177 pellets which should lessen the sonic crack of this thing somewhat

http://www.pyramydair.com/article/Gamo_Shadow_1000_July_2007/43

Charlie Tuna trigger on my shopping list though -

Slavia · Moderator

The Gamo/Theoben style trigger is supposedly a "two-stage" trigger, but the first stage is nothing but slop. The adjustment screw pre-stages the sear, so it's possible to have the sear right on the point of release when you cock it (not good). The washer/bushing mods are cheap and work somewhat, but are risky. Too small and there is no effect. Too large and once again the sear is very near the point of release. Remember on a spring-powered airgun the sear doesn't just hold back a wimpy firing pin spring - it's the humongous spring inside the piston.

The GTR and GTX replacement triggers are always in contact with the sear, instead of just at the end of the "pull." The adjustment screw changes the transition point between the first and second stages. That point is a leverage change, and the sear fully engages on cocking. Since the trigger is always touching the sear, the sear spring returns the trigger blade to its full-forward position. The extra spring inside the trigger blade to pull it back through the "slop" isn't even necessary, so the trigger becomes a bit lighter.

I have three guns with this type of trigger - a Gamo and two Crosman's. The Gamo has the bushing mod, and is O.K. but not great. The two Crosman's have the GTR/GTX style mods (my own parts, but the same geometry). That's the way to go. For $40 U.S.D. you get a lighter trigger, full sear engagement, and you can put the transition point right where you want it.

Installation is simple. Three screws get the action out of the stock, and removing one "E" clip lets you pull the trigger pin. No other parts to fall out, and no absurd gyrations to align it on re-assembly. Excellent installation instructions for both the GTR and GTX versions are available online so you can see what you're getting into.

In the mean time, keep on shooting and having fun. It takes 500-1000 shots to break in the gun, so it will get better all by itself.