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Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:10 pm |
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| Alstone |
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| Joined: 01 Mar 2007 |
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| Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND |
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I don't know whether I an deformed or not, but every gun I own dosen't seem to fit me, so I made an adjustable butt plate for my TX, which makes it a lot more comfortable.
Al |
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Last edited by Alstone on Wed Apr 02, 2008 2:59 pm; edited 1 time in total _________________
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Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:47 pm |
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| StevieLaner7777 |
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Hey Al
Good job Al and yeh I find it uncomfortable sometimes having to position the rifles butt higher on my shoulder to keep my neck from aching.
Did the Metal already have the swirly effect on it or did you add that?
and how does the sliding mechanism work?
Stevie  |
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_________________ "Who Dares Wins" - SAS 22nd Regiment Hereford. |
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Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 7:02 pm |
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| Alstone |
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| StevieLaner7777 wrote: |
Hey Al
Good job Al and yeh I find it uncomfortable sometimes having to position the rifles butt higher on my shoulder to keep my neck from aching.
Did the Metal already have the swirly effect on it or did you add that?
and how does the sliding mechanism work?
Stevie  |
Hi Stevie
The swirl pattern I put on with some emery rolled up and pushed inside a tube with about 1/8 sticking out, then spun it in a drill press, looks quite effective.
As for the sliding mechanism I didn't, I drilled a series of holes and screwed the but in the nearest to the hight I wanted, seems to work allright. I might put a sliding unit on it later.
Al |
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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:42 am |
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| Alstone |
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After trying out a moverable butt plate I found the lower position better for my style of shooting, the only problem was when I needed to put it back it entailed unscrewing the pad readjusting the plate and replacing the pad.
So here is the MKll adjustable butt plate, made out of 10" of 1/8" *1 1/2" Aluminium (Aluminum to north America) .
The idea is that there is only me who uses my TX so it dosen't need to be fully adjustable, so once I had found out the setting I liked that was the only one needed.
These are the two parts of the plate one plate fastened to the butt and one to the pad
The two plates are held together by two pins fitted with ball locks, these are a spring loaded ballbearings.
The pins are threaded and screwed into the pad plate, you put a drop of locktite on the thread then screw it into the pad plate put the butt plate on and adjust the pins to the correct length to hold the two plates tightly together. the pins are made by drilling a hole nearly through the pin the same dia as the ballbearing, put a spring in the hold the ball on top and give it a tap with a punch so as to burr to top of the hole to stop the ball from escaping.
The idea is that when you want to adjust the butt you just pull it off and replace it in the new position, and the ballbearing holds it in place.
Al |
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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:17 pm |
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| DAMAGE |
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Thats a really nice job you've don't there and it looks like it would be fast and effective in every situations, Thats using ya head, great design M8 and the pattern you got on the metal just finishes it.  |
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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 2:58 pm |
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| Alstone |
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Ok I can't leave things alone so here's the MKlll model, a bit more difficult to make but with this you can't accidently knock the but plate off, this one is locked on until you press the button between the butt and the gun.
OPEN
CLOSED
LOCKING GROVE AROUND PINS
Al |
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 12:53 am |
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| Slavia |
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Very nice work. How did you get the "swirlies" in straight lines and evenly spaced?
I've seen that effect referred to as "damascening" and "jewelling." What is the correct term?
I did the same thing on the Slavia 631, minus the artwork. I embedded brass screw anchors on the same centers as the original wood screws. Then the two rough-cut layers of aluminium and the plastic butt plate were screwed to the gun with machine screws. The whole assembly was dressed down with a file to match the contour of the stock (I put a single layer of masking tape on the wood and filed down until I was just scraping the tape.) Scotch-Brite and Armor-All finished the plastic.
Then just the two pieces of aluminumumum were bolted together and placed in a cross-slide vise (held by the machine screws). The drill press bored a series of holes four "cranks" apart, evenly spaced. The holes in the gun-side plate were tapped, and the holes on the other piece were counter-sunk.
This kind of modification is also adjustable for reach with the addition of spacers. Like you, I am the only one to use the gun. If I were to do it over again I would skip all the fancy holes and just position the plate for myself.
I am posting a picture of the CZ, as well as my son's Gamo. He woke up one day measuring 6'-2," but doesn't shoot enough to warrant a new gun. We can put it back to the "youth" configuration should there ever be grandchildren.
By the way - Walmart in the U.S. sells a pancake griddle for about $10 that is nearly 1/8" thick. Enough for an adjustable comb and butt on a couple of guns.
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 12:57 am |
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| Slavia |
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| Now that I'm thinking about it, the adjustable butt plate on the CZ looks, well - shabby next to yours. Time to fire up the drill press. |
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:04 am |
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| Alstone |
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Looks a nice job to me Slavia, but I guess your a bit like me, can't leave things alone?.
Anyway to get the fancy effect on to the aluminium plate I use a strip of emery rolled up and pushed into a tube, leaving about 1/8" sticking out, drill a hole through the tube and emery and stick a pin or a bit of wire in to stop the emery from sliding up the tube, naturaly the finer the emery the better the finish, also adding a drop of metal polish while you are doing it does help to keep the shine.
When doing the polishing 'I call it rotary burnishing' using the drill press work left or right in rows and overlap about half of the previous burnish, the same when you come to the next row half of the one obove and the previous one.
The one on the photo shows the effect but take no notice of the finish this was just a test piece.
Have fun
Al
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:05 am |
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| Slavia |
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As mi' sainted father was wont to say, "That's slicker than snot on a glass doorknob."
The little things press-fit into the moveable piece are "T" nuts (originally for anchoring machine screws in wood). I felt that I needed locator pins above and beyond the centering effect of flathead screws. I spun them in a drill while shaping them with a Dremel Moto Tool using an abrasive cutoff wheel.
The Dremel is indispensible. I shortened the screws with the same technique. It leaves the cut nice and square to the screw's axis.
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:52 am |
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| Alstone |
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Great minds think alike there Slavia, I did a similar thing to fasten some swivels into the stock on a QB78 but I used Heli-Coils. I aggree with you about the Dremel tool, I have the Black & Decker equivalent made by Dremel.
Anyway you seem to have made a good job of the plates, if you are going to put a pattern on them I would polish them first, it makes a lot of diffrence to the finished job.
Al |
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:52 pm |
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| Slavia |
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I have a thing about wood screws and guns.
I also have a thing about spending money, even if saving the price of a beer means six months of planning and another six months of execution. |
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