| | | | | | | | | New Prosport back home | | | | | |
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 8:06 pm |
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josh3rd |
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Joined: 25 Jun 2011 |
Posts: 15 |
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A couple of days ago i got my prosport back from PA for an exchange of my old one. Reason why it went back is because when I had it "serviced" and upon return the top of the shroud where a front sight post would go was dented along with scratches mid way down on both sides of the shroud. Shipping company's fault. Well anyway I met the UPS man at the his van door. Grabbed the box and ran into the house and proceeded to unbox it.
It seems that their walnut stocks don't seem to appealing for an extra $100 some dollars. Well I got some pellets and cocked the rifle and it is twangy, rough cocking. I pointed it at a target (without scope), proceeded to pull the trigger and the trigger is gritty as all hell. I took it apart, polished spring ends a little better, degreased everything, put moly in the appropriate places, checked the seals and so forth. And still somewhat rough...
I know I have to break it in but darn, I somewhat regret sending my broken one it. I checked my rear spring guide and yes its loose. It doesn't rattle side to side but I can pull it out very easily without any type of effort. Heck I even had the balls to take a part and polish my sears. I found a video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF2UyX9Ca3g they were rough and machine markings on them as well.
which was pretty cool and when reassembled it the trigger and cocking action wasn't much of difference. So I then scoped it and continued to literally shoot, shoot and shoot. I probably got 100+/- rds already through it.
Then on saturday I scoured the internet and seen some people talk and use a aluminum can or a plastic milk jug and cut it to make a piston sleeve. Ok, 1 Sunkist can cut to approiate length/width, lubed it with moly, inserted it and man is it might and day. Now where near as noisy and twangy. I would encourage you to give it a try and see for yourself. I then took apart the trigger group again. This time I used a fine sharpening stone and then buffed the contact points. The video said to only do 2 or 3 different areas. Well I did those parts again and the sides of the parts too. Reassembled everything and it is night and day. Crazy part is, is that upon reassembling, I test fired it and I didn't have a 2nd stage WTF!!! I was really stressing. 1st i should have learned to not mess w/triggers when I 1st tried on my RWS 54. Then I was beating myself up and said "hey, try turning in the 2nd stage screw" Boom, 2nd stage is back. I think that when I was using the fine sharpening stone, that I may have removed to much material? Who knows, but its back. Was only able to shoot at 20yds but accuracy is on par for an Air Arms. I still want a fitted guide but just don't got the coin. I got bullseye bucks though.
Hey if anyone has specs for the factory Prosport Spring, please let me know if its equivalent to this:
.82" or 21mm OD; .55" or 14mm ID; .13" or 3.302mm thickness of coil; 25 coils w/o counting spring ends; 27 coils w/spring ends. Well so far so good.
Oh yeah, when I put that aluminum piston liner in, does or will that reduce my fps? Well thats all for now. Any and all input, feedback, opinions and suggestions are encouraged and welcome. |
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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 12:52 am |
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AirGunEric |
Site Admin |
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 6906 |
Location: "Out There" |
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Adding a tin can or otherwise as a piston sleeve is generally not a great idea- if it catches on the spring you will have all sorts of issues, including having to order new parts. A suggestion might be to shim the spring on one end (the rear usually) to take up any slack that may be contributing to 'twang' and being sure the spring is lubricated properly. |
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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 11:55 pm |
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josh3rd |
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Joined: 25 Jun 2011 |
Posts: 15 |
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AirGunEric wrote: |
Adding a tin can or otherwise as a piston sleeve is generally not a great idea- if it catches on the spring you will have all sorts of issues, including having to order new parts. A suggestion might be to shim the spring on one end (the rear usually) to take up any slack that may be contributing to 'twang' and being sure the spring is lubricated properly. |
Never even crossed my mind. Thank you for the heads up |
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