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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:41 am |
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| Sholo |
| Veteran Member |

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| Joined: 24 Mar 2011 |
| Posts: 125 |
| Location: Eastern Ontario |
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My poor ol' gun has gone through enough transformations, I think it has an identity crisis now!
It started out as a bone-stock 2240 I purchased from Eric @ ScopesAndAmmo, but who keeps a 2240 *stock*, right? I left it original just untill I gathered up some parts for (as it turned out) "phase 1" - which was supposed to be the only phase, btw... Parts included:
steel breech (with 3 barrel set screws instead of just one)
24" barrel
2260 tube
Disco valve (modified)
Disco fill adapter
Disco hammer spring
MuzzleMack extended valve cap
Crosman shoulder stock
13 ci bottle regulated @ 1500 psi
Leapers 3-9x40 illuminated Mil Dot
couple of home-brewed pieces - PA, shroud (cosmetics only), extended bolt probe, bracket for rear of bottle
If it wasn't for the 22xx trigger, I probably would have left it alone. I did the usual shim and polish procedure, lighter spring with guide/overtravel stop, even did the ball bearing-on-the-lobe mod. Although it was substantially better than stock, it was still a single stage trigger with room for improvement:
So...I got myself an M-Rod rifle trigger group and installed it using low profile 8-32x3/8" SHCS's ...OMG! I should have just done that from the start! ByFAR the best trigger out of all my guns. Fully adjustable, and the 2nd stage breaks like glass. Highly recommended...The only thing with this trigger group is you have to change the stock, as you can no longer use the 22xx grip frame (unless you opt for the P-Rod trigger and change/modify your hammer) Disco stock is a perfect fit, but I went a different route.
First, a pic of the installed trigger (no modifications needed, direct bolt-on)
I had an AR2078LE, so I bought an "A" stock for it, and fitted the LE (thumbhole) stock to the 2260. All that was needed for it to work was to widen the trigger slot by about 1/8", a bit of inletting so the top of trigger group sat flush with botttom of tube, as well as drill a new hole for the stock mounting bolt. I also cut/shaped the forestock to accomodate the 13 ci bottle for a nice snug fit. By the time I had this done, I managed to put enough scratches/dings in the stock that I decided to sand it down to bare wood and re-stain. I ended up using Tung oil and Minwax "230 Early American" stain, followed by 2 coats of semi gloss Diamond Wood Finish Varathane. It came out looking alright - albeit a bit *shiny* for semi gloss.
Befor and after pics:
Yeah, I know - it looks a little goofy with the 3/4" space between the end of the bottle and stock , but seeing as the front part is pretty much permanent, this is the only way I can remove the bottle if/when I ever need to. Maybe I will cut a piece from the chunk I cut out of the forestock and make a removeable block so it looks better... . Other than that, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, even if it was a lot of work just to upgrade the trigger! Worth it IMO, though...
Thanks, Eric for supplying all the parts needed. You da man!
Sorry for the long-winded post, hope you enjoy!
Todd |
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 11:33 am |
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| Alstone |
| Moderator & Site Supporter |

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| Joined: 01 Mar 2007 |
| Posts: 4139 |
| Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND |
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Nice conversion Sholo, I like the use of the M-Rod trigger unit, it just needs a trigger guard fitted to finish it off.
Good job
Al |
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 9:36 am |
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| Sholo |
| Veteran Member |

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| Joined: 24 Mar 2011 |
| Posts: 125 |
| Location: Eastern Ontario |
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I agree on the guard, Al.
A fellow on another forum suggested one from a Challenger, which I think might look alright, or I may just make one
Todd |
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