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grimlama · Member

Excellent research and project...I got's nothing but respect for you guys that actually know what you're doing with mechinical thingies...lol...

I love my Titan, and like you said about yours, it seems to like the cphp's and it also likes the benji discovery pellets in 14.3...It can shoot a lot better than I can...Yep, I love my Titan, but the critters don't seem to...lol

z28rod · New Member

My Titan GP shoots cphp pellets at 720 fps all day long, and gives up dime sized groups with them at 25 yrds. This is exactly what I wanted in a .22 air rifle.Plus the Nitro piston I can leave locked and loaded and ready for action. Iam a old dude, kids long gone growed up, now i can have some fun...... nothing like hunting on your own property ha ha !!!

Slavia · Moderator

It finally cooled down enough so I could work in the garage.

One of my (many) quirks is that I don't like wood screws on guns. So - I replaced the front trigger screw with a brass threaded anchor and socket-head machine screw:

The Titan's stock is very comfortable - the comb height and drop on the butt are perfect for me. The only adjustment needed was to add length of pull. I had a slip-on butt pad on it until now, but decided to make it permanent. I had enough Walmart pancake griddle aluminum left over from previous projects to make the two plates, so all I needed was screws, anchors, and spacers:

The anchors went in the same position as the wood screws:

One plate hides the end grain of the butt, and the other stiffens the rubber butt pad. I rough-cut them with a jig saw and filed them down to size. (I filed until I started scuffing the masking tape.):

When I get around to the woodwork I'll sand them down flush with the wood and polish them up:

The rear mounting screw bears against the plastic trigger guard, so I wanted to beef it up a little. I turned a screw cup from a spent .40 S&W aluminum case (the O.D. is a perfect fit). I also discovered that the original screw only entered the threaded hole with 2 1/2 turns engaged. The hole is 8 turns deep, so I cut my replacement screw a little long. The socket-head replacement screw also needed to be turned down to fit inside the .40 case. (As usual I turned the parts by spinning them in a drill press and grinding on them with a Dremel.):

The screw cup was epoxied in place:

Finally the end of the screw cup was filed flush with the backside of the trigger guard:

Slavia · Moderator

My direction for this project is more of a "sporting" gun than a target gun, so I did some scope swapping and put a red dot sight on it. While this red dot doesn't have magnification, it does allow one to come on target quickly. Also, a single-plane sighting system is easier on aging eyes than trying to focus on three-planes (rear sight, front sight, and target).

One drawback is that the gun has a rainbow trajectory over its usable range, and the sight has that single red dot. No stadia lines or mil dots to help estimate holdover/under. So, I wanted a calibrated elevation knob.

I unscrewed the original adjustment screws. On some scopes there is a "C" or "E" clip that keeps them from coming out, and in those cases I would have had to remove the entire turret. Here they just came right out. I put tape over the holes to exclude dust. Since I will be soldering extensions to the screws I removed the ratchet pawls, springs, and retainer screws to keep them from getting fried:

I removed the calibration rings from the screws and filed the heads flat. The extensions will be 1/4" bolts with the heads turned thin, flat, and round:

I soldered the extensions to the screw heads. The elevation knob was made from PVC pipe scraps and Radio Shack knobs. (A large turret dust cap will be epoxied to the top to finish it off.)

This scope has a 5/8" mount. I know there are adapters available, but what fun would that be? I found the clamp in the junk room of a local gun store, and made the plate from a piece of "T" slot aluminum. Making my own plate also allowed me to add a spirit level (the vial from a plastic Walmart level and a piece of brass pipe nipple). In the past I have made these adjustable, only to find that once set I never touch them again. In this case I skipped the complexity and "adjusted" it with a file:

The plate clamps securely to the gun, and the level mounting screw also serves to engage the scope stop hole in the compression tube of the gun. The groove at the front of the plate engages one of the scope's mounting screws:

Here is the scope cleaned up and painted. For the windage knob I just ran the extension out through a hole in the dust cap and added a small re-shaped Radio Shack knob. The elevation adjustments range over 2 1/2 turns of the screw, and it can be confusing to remember which turn the knob is on. This knob can be set to bottom out at one end of the range as a reference (it's called a "bottoming turret" for that reason). The labels are computer printouts with clear tape on top and double-faced tape to adhere them to the scope:

The knob is currently calibrated with information from Chairgun. I can easily make a new turret tape with empirical data after the tune. A windage chart (from Chairgun) went into the rear flip-up scope cap:

This scope has two "quirks" that needed to be addressed. One is that the dot washes out in bright sunlight, even on the brightest setting. A (free) scrap of gray "smoked" plexiglass from the local glass place solved that. It slips under the front flip-up cap, in effect giving the scope "sunglasses."

The other problem was parallax error. If you move your head around while holding the gun still, the dot noticeably changes position. This is a $30 scope, so I suspect you get what you pay for. I experimented with clear plexiglass inserts with reference circles to help center the dot in the center position:

They work, but the best solution turned out to be removing the paint from the rear of the ocular bezel, creating a "ghost ring":

Slavia · Moderator

I spent the last few months looking at literally hundreds of gunstocks, until I finally found some lines and design features that I could live with. By the way, if you're looking for eye candy, check out the best I found - Lucas Parseley in Poland:
http://www.lukasz-pietruszka.hostit.pl/news.php

As you can see in the second photo, I did some scope swapping. The red dot just wasn't giving me the results I wanted, and I had an older Crosman 4X32 scope that I wasn't afraid to experiment on. I made the objective lens adjustable, as well as adding turret knobs, a blinder holder, a spirit level, and flip-up scope caps.

This is the drawing that I have been working with (top is original and the bottom two were photoshopped):

The additional wood from the trigger guard forward was added by overarm routing the stock in a drill press with a rotary rasp (stock upside down and routed from above). This "Chinese mystery wood" is strange stuff. It has a grain pattern kind of like Hickory, with perpendicular flecks like Birch. In one spot it transitions from tan to rose in the space of one growth ring, and it has several gray streaks. It also burns like Maple with power tools, but thankfully is soft enough to do by hand. The best match for the Titan's mystery wood: more mystery wood. The addition came from the butt area of my (cracked) B3-2 stock. Other than that one piece and the grip/forend caps, it has all been material removal from the original stock. It's a work in progress:

radar · Silver Status Member

Wonderful thread...and a nice break from the springtime forum duldrums, too. Thanks!

That GP is nearly identical to my RWS 34 ballistics with CP 14.3 grainers. Try JSB 18.13 grain domed, they give me an even 18 fpe @ 669 fps average MV in the 34 which is its peak power level pellet weight.

-Rob

SMP · Silver Status Member

Really nice job Slavia

I like the suggestion of using 45ACP brass for screw cups. Much cheaper than the turned brass units I buy from Lee Valley...unless of coarse your canadian and 45 acp brass is rarer than hens teeth and more valuable than gold Laughing

That wood looks like asian beech. Your right it's kind of odd stuff but you see it in lots of wood cutting boards sold by BB stores. Sort of a cross between birch beech and aspen.

But your thread is putting me to shame. I have made absolutely zippo progress on my own stock project. Embarassed

You've inspired me to bring it to work and fiddle around with it in the evenings Smile

Thanks

Beautiful rework

Be cautious about trying to stain that stuff..it goes blotchy and those grey streaks turn green. It seems to like pigmented topcoats the best

Slavia · Moderator

SMP · Silver Status Member

Thanks for the little how to on the casings...I like that. And it seems fitting to use casings as furniture on a rifle stock

I would think Pre conditioner should help out a lot. I would avoid stains with a yellow spectrum because of the grey turning green issue. red tints like the walnuts, pecans and american's would be better I think

robert w · Senior Member

humm my titan gp is shootin in the 760-780 range with cphps and i put in a gold trigger . its a squirrel,starling killing machine . ive logged 6 tins of cphps through it and no problems yet but im gonna make some bronze wahsers for the barrel . i have a lot of brass shim stock so i just need to geter dun . mine is getting easier to cock as it breaks in . i used some birchwood caseys stok sheen and rubbed it a lot ,produced a deep shine then used birchwood's wax .now it sheda water and looks like it has a high priced stock finish. the more i use my titan the more i like it but its my only chinese gun left .the other 6 are german

Slavia · Moderator

ZipSnipe · Veteran Member

Looks awesome Slavia!!! I see you ran into the same problem I had when I went to stain the Bullpup, I will use a dark wood next time so I don't have to deal with stain!!!

Yes Thank Rustoleum for paint to save the day !!!!!

But yes great job on that gun, looks to sweet to fire!!!!

Slavia · Moderator

A quick comment regarding what I learned about the bed liner: Very few of the projects that I've seen using bed liner have panels of the stuff - it's usually the entire piece. If you mask off an area and then let the bed liner dry, there is the risk that peeling off the masking tape will lift and tear the bedliner membrane.

I found that it works better to let the liner dry just to the point of being gooey (i.e., not liquid), and then remove the masking tape. As you pull the tape, angle the edge in towards the liner area. This will pull bed liner back into that area, rather than depositing gooey threads and blobs outside the line. Also be careful when removing newspaper with (still) sticky overspray. Roll it up as you go so none of it goes where you don't want it.

As always, surface preparation is important. Rough up the area that will receive bed liner so that it has "tooth," or something to grip. On this project I masked, scraped with a knife, and then re-masked for the paint. The border lines left over from the stippling process made that easy in this case.

The bed liner can be clear coated, although that would make it slicker and reduce the "grip." Wiping it is a disaster, because the rough texture snags fibers from the cloth. In my case I was faced with trying to remove traces of polishing compound and wax - use a toothbrush, water, and pat it dry with a cloth. Armor All worked in with a soft paintbrush will make it easier to keep clean down the road.

Big Ern · Veteran Member

Wow Slav! That is just unreal! I can't stop looking at it lol!!

Ernesto

Roy · Veteran Member

Really Slavia, is that the best you can do?

Jus' kiddin'! That's great work. I would like to see it and try it out--any chance you could bring it to Cadott in July?