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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 7:53 am |
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| rawhide |
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| Joined: 01 Jun 2011 |
| Posts: 30 |
| Location: washington |
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I got a quest 1000 crosmen. ben hearing alot abought the o ring at the breech end. how offten should you change it?
plus how often do you oil the chamber? ben hearing any where from 100-500 shots. you put only 1 drop of oil in.
and how do you oil the sring? some pics on that would help thanks |
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:56 am |
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| domer_pyle |
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| Joined: 17 Sep 2009 |
| Posts: 523 |
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| Do yourself a favor and order a Tesla seal (almost postiive that's the one) and some moly from airrifleheadquarters, and why not a spring while you're there. A guide set for your gun can be had for 32 bucks shipped. Use 400-600 grit wet/dry paper and hone the inside of the chamber, put some moly on the new seal and work it back and forth a few times in the cylinder and then put your gun back together. After that you don't ever have to do anything to the chamber, and your gun will cycle much more smoothly |
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:57 am |
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| AirGunEric |
| Site Admin |

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| Joined: 20 Jan 2007 |
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| Location: "Out There" |
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The factory seal is fine- don't waste your time or money on the ARH stuff. I might also suggest you don't "sand" the chamber- get a 1" ball hone and do it properly if you feel so inclined.
There is generally nothing wrong with the breech seal either- unless you have damaged it- leave it alone- unless something is mis-aligned and causing the seal to rub on the tube end (NOT common) it could last for many years. If replacing the spring or piston seal, then you could replace it at the same time for good measure- but any "issues" people had 8 years ago with this platform are not applicable generally these days.
Put 2 or 3 drops of silicone oil down the transfer port every 5-700 shots- the first few shots might be a bit "wet" but that's OK- you want to be sure the silicone oil finds its way all around the piston seal perimeter.
The Crosman's got a lot of criticism in the first couple of years this platform started being used (2004-2005) and unfortunately many people have never updated themselves- the platform from the factory is quite good these days and most "problems" people have complained about in years gone by do not exist any longer. |
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:57 pm |
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| SMP |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Joined: 04 Feb 2011 |
| Posts: 1183 |
| Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario |
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X2 on the ball hone.
Honing with sandpaper is very possible and i've certainly done hundreds of air and hydraulic cylinders using sandpaper. But you need to have some experience and to do it correctly you need to be able to make a wooden honing tool that is sized correctly. Ball hones are just so easy, especially for the novice it's impossible to argue against them.
To answer your question though about lubing your spring. If you don't want to do a full lube tune and remove the spring, clean it, and apply moly then a few drops of pelgun oil or rws spring lube will do the trick.
Remove the three screws required to remove the action from the stock. (2 on the sides of the forearm and one in the rear of the trigger guard). Put a half a drop on the coils you can see through the cocking slot and reassemble. The oil will naturally disperse itself because of the helix of the spring. |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 8:26 am |
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| rawhide |
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| Joined: 01 Jun 2011 |
| Posts: 30 |
| Location: washington |
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| SMP wrote: |
X2 on the ball hone.
Honing with sandpaper is very possible and i've certainly done hundreds of air and hydraulic cylinders using sandpaper. But you need to have some experience and to do it correctly you need to be able to make a wooden honing tool that is sized correctly. Ball hones are just so easy, especially for the novice it's impossible to argue against them.
To answer your question though about lubing your spring. If you don't want to do a full lube tune and remove the spring, clean it, and apply moly then a few drops of pelgun oil or rws spring lube will do the trick.
Remove the three screws required to remove the action from the stock. (2 on the sides of the forearm and one in the rear of the trigger guard). Put a half a drop on the coils you can see through the cocking slot and reassemble. The oil will naturally disperse itself because of the helix of the spring. |
ok mind you I never have taken the action out of the stock on a air gun. so I realy don't know what I'm doing... theres 2 phillips head screw on the side of the stock and the one at the gard. is this them? mite try it after work tonight. do I have to worry about any pats going flying or other stuff like that? oh and on the chamber sounds like that would be wonderful but I rather some one show me how to remove the spring safely to do that. |
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Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:08 pm |
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| SMP |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Joined: 04 Feb 2011 |
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| Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario |
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That's it just those three screws. Then a light tap under the barrel should free the entire barrel and power plant.
The only part that may drop out is decent sized stamped metal spacer that sits right at the rear trigger screw. If it falls out there is only one way it slides back in and it's obvious. if you hold the gun in the normal position when you remove the action it will stay sitting in it's position in the stock |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:17 am |
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| rawhide |
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| Joined: 01 Jun 2011 |
| Posts: 30 |
| Location: washington |
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wel I got it apart and oiled the spring lastnight. very simple to do. I was afraid the scope maybe off no still on. now the gun cocks easier.
plus my groups shrunk!!! doing one hole groups at 20 yards. at 40 doing half inch. thanks guys. |
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:13 am |
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| domer_pyle |
| Senior Member |

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| Did you see the factory seal? Mine was a bit rough looking, and with the ARH seals my velocities went up and ES went down. Of course with the cylinder hone and moly, and I have run a train through my XL since doing that and almost every time I put the occasional shot over the chrony it hits at 904 +2- fps. Just sayin, I've never been disappointed with anything I've gotten from there |
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:10 am |
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| rawhide |
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| Joined: 01 Jun 2011 |
| Posts: 30 |
| Location: washington |
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| domer_pyle wrote: |
| Did you see the factory seal? Mine was a bit rough looking, and with the ARH seals my velocities went up and ES went down. Of course with the cylinder hone and moly, and I have run a train through my XL since doing that and almost every time I put the occasional shot over the chrony it hits at 904 +2- fps. Just sayin, I've never been disappointed with anything I've gotten from there |
no I didn't |
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:25 pm |
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| SMP |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Joined: 04 Feb 2011 |
| Posts: 1183 |
| Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario |
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_________________ Sean
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