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 Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:04 pm |
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| LDH® |
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| Joined: 29 Apr 2011 |
| Posts: 66 |
| Location: By the ocean |
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Newbie here, just getting acquainted with my new air rifle and figured there was a forum for every other niche in the world so there must be one for air guns too 
I'm a fairly decent marksman with proper firearms and I have also used a Daisy Powerline 901 (iron sights) with amazing success in terms of accuracy at 25 yards or less, but when I stepped up the game recently with a higher powered air rifle I ran into all kinds of problems sighting it in even at shorter distances let alone longer shots. Turns out the scope it came with is absolute crap so I rectified that problem and then I found that the ammo I was shooting caused massive changes in the flight of the pellet. I could zero in a match or lead hunting pellet and then from even just 35 feet a GAMO PBA wouldn't even hit the target it would fly right over it!
We have a scale here at work so sensitive that it literally changes the reading throughout the day as the barometric pressure goes up & down so I decided to sample some of the different ammo I have been shooting.
GAMO Red Fire .50g
GAMO Hunter .50g
Gamo Match .48g
PBA Raptor Gold .32
I had also tried some Crosman SSP pellets, but I was having a lot of key-holing problems with them. Best I can figure they are so light and malleable that they were collapsing in the barrel and then just tumbling in flight.
Anywho, hope this forum has some activity and some insight  |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:00 pm |
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| farrlarr |
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| Joined: 11 Nov 2010 |
| Posts: 35 |
| Location: Pocatello, Idaho |
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| You don't say what your new rifle is so I'm going to take a wild guess that it is a break barrel springer, and point out that springers are quite hold-sensitive and pellet-sensitive. You will find that the way you hold your powder burners won't work for a springer, and changing pellets will usually result in a completely different point of impact. With regard to the hold, look up the "artillery hold" on the Web; essentially holding the rifle very loosely so it can move back and forth in response to the piston/spring moving on firing. As far as pellets go, find one that shoots well in your rifle and use it exclusively. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:33 pm |
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| LDH® |
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| Joined: 29 Apr 2011 |
| Posts: 66 |
| Location: By the ocean |
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| farrlarr wrote: |
| You don't say what your new rifle is so I'm going to take a wild guess that it is a break barrel springer, and point out that springers are quite hold-sensitive and pellet-sensitive. You will find that the way you hold your powder burners won't work for a springer, and changing pellets will usually result in a completely different point of impact. With regard to the hold, look up the "artillery hold" on the Web; essentially holding the rifle very loosely so it can move back and forth in response to the piston/spring moving on firing. As far as pellets go, find one that shoots well in your rifle and use it exclusively. |
Sir, you fuggin rock! Thanks for taking the time to educate me.
That hold improved my grouping by 150%
What is the ideal range to sight a pellet rifle in at? I've got a 4x32 scope on it and if I sight it in at 15 feet (yes I know that is way too close) I can put'em in the same damn hole, but then I move back to 25 feet and it is no longer zero'd, but I can sight it in again and get it back to that same super tight grouping until I move back farther etc... I just can't seem to find the correct range to start with that will allow all the shorter distances to work equally as well. Is there a point where the 4X32 scope simply isn't accurate at close distances period? It's a Leapers which is a far cry from the Leupold's I use on many of my PB's, but it is 1000 times better than the POS scope that came on the rifle
What is really strange though is even with the problems I have had with short distance groupings. I can pop a metal fence post 20 yards out with 1" groups over & over again AND I was doing that with my death grip hold not the Artillery Hold you just taught me. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:38 pm |
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| AirGunEric |
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| Also, take those Gamo PBA's and throw them in the nearest round receptacle- they are crap, and in any higher-powered gun you'll be lucky to hit the broad side of a barn at 50 feet. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 10:08 pm |
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| donec |
| Senior Member |
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| Joined: 19 Dec 2009 |
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| Location: central Texas Pflugerville area |
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| AirGunEric wrote: |
| Also, take those Gamo PBA's and throw them in the nearest round receptacle- they are crap, and in any higher-powered gun you'll be lucky to hit the broad side of a barn at 50 feet. |
Now Eric you know that is not true because if you aim at the house and try real hard to miss the barn you might hit the barn.  or your foot. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 10:25 am |
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| farrlarr |
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| Joined: 11 Nov 2010 |
| Posts: 35 |
| Location: Pocatello, Idaho |
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| LDH® wrote: |
Sir, you fuggin rock! Thanks for taking the time to educate me.
That hold improved my grouping by 150%
What is the ideal range to sight a pellet rifle in at?
[snip]
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Thanks for the comment; it is always nice to be of help.
There really isn't any particular "ideal range" for zeroing. It all depends on the range at which you are most likely to shoot. Pick a distance, say 15 yards, zero your scope and then shoot at different distances to determine how much to hold over or under to put you back on target. Remember that your pellet is going ballistic, just like the slug from your powder burner, and there are going to be two points along the ballistic trajectory when it crosses the line of sight. At distances less than the far point, which is what is most commonly used as the zero, the projectile is going to hit higher than the point of aim; at distances farther than that, the projectile will hit lower. The whole issue is to not constantly be changing the settings of your scope. Simply pick a reasonable distance, zero your scope for that distance and then learn, through lots of shooting, when/where to hold high/low for differing distances. You have already stated that you are able to shoot tight groups at any distance but you are doing so while changing scope settings, which you don't need to do. The ability (of the gun, of the scope and of you), you just need to make hold adjustments while keeping everything else the same. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 1:10 pm |
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| domer_pyle |
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| Joined: 17 Sep 2009 |
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| If it's a .177 rated at 1000 a good zero to start with is 30 yards, then out to there and a little farther you don't need to guess how much to hold over or under. I used to zero all my rifles there, but now I zero for trajectory and I guess the distance would be 38 yards. That way, between 10 and 40 the most the pellet is high or low is about a half inch |
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| Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 11:54 am |
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| LDH® |
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| Joined: 29 Apr 2011 |
| Posts: 66 |
| Location: By the ocean |
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What a difference a hold makes...
I'm easily shooting 20mm groups at 100' now with the Artillery hold.
Just for grins I tried shooting a couple more with the tight grip I was using and instantly it was high & right or high & left etc. I also tried just laying the gun over the back of my hand or arm & I guess that was too loose as those would go all over the place so there seems to be a really fine art to the grasp of the gun. |
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