 |  | | | |  | |  |  | Painting old steel |  | |  |  | |
 Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:53 am |
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| Jeremy |
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| Joined: 19 May 2010 |
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Hi Guys
I have my dads very old pellet gun ( close to 50 years old now ) and although the inner barrel is okay, not rusted at all from being shot so much in the last year. The outside is very rusted and corroded and want to know if there is a way that I can remove as much of the rust as possible and paint it with something? gun bluing? and what would be the best way to refinish the stock? its in pretty good shape just needs maybe a new finish on it
Cheers
Jeremy |
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| | | | | | | | | Re: Painting old steel | | | | | |
| Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:48 am |
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| Crosman140 |
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| Joined: 13 Dec 2008 |
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| Location: USA |
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| Jeremy wrote: |
Hi Guys
I have my dads very old pellet gun ( close to 50 years old now ) |
Very cool. Neat to have guns like that. What is the model of the gun?
| Quote: |
The outside is very rusted and corroded and want to know if there is a way that I can remove as much of the rust as possible and paint it with something? gun bluing? |
I would start with steel wool on the barrel removing all the rust. Then perhaps a cold bluing solution and then keep it oiled, or use Johnson's Paste Wax as a rust inhibitor.
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| what would be the best way to refinish the stock? its in pretty good shape just needs maybe a new finish on it |
I would strip off the old finish. If there are any dents, sometimes you can wet that area of the wood and then dry it with a hair drier. I understand this will sometimes lift the dent out.
Then, you'll need to decide if you want to darken or colorize the finish using a stain. Then the final finish can be oil or polyurethane or Johnson's Paste Wax. I would suggest several coats of these finishes. Let each coat dry or sit for a day, then lightly sand it with very fine steel wool. This will smooth out your finish.
You can skip the stain if you want a more natural lighter color.
I have a Crosman Model 140 from 1955 that I am going to refinish the stock on some time. Fortunately for me, the metal has no rust.
I'm planning on stripping the stock and then putting on several layers of wax. |
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My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
BB Marksman 1010 (1979) |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:37 pm |
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| donec |
| Senior Member |
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| Joined: 19 Dec 2009 |
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| You may not want to repair it. If it is rare enough then a collector may want it original some day. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:47 pm |
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| Jeremy |
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| Joined: 19 May 2010 |
| Posts: 154 |
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thanks for the tips guys 
donec : I thought about that but I kind of want to keep the gun
Crosman140 : The only name I can make out on it is raven, but its not anything like the crossman raven. I thought about the cold bluing solution
I would ideally like to have the barrel a sand colour, but I dont think you can hit them with krylon right? at least I dont think I would want to try that. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:14 pm |
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| Crosman140 |
| Senior Member |
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| Joined: 13 Dec 2008 |
| Posts: 663 |
| Location: USA |
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| Jeremy wrote: |
thanks for the tips guys
donec : I thought about that but I kind of want to keep the gun
Crosman140 : The only name I can make out on it is raven, but its not anything like the crossman raven. I thought about the cold bluing solution
I would ideally like to have the barrel a sand colour, but I dont think you can hit them with krylon right? at least I dont think I would want to try that. |
There is a product called duracoat. A lot of people use it to paint the metal on their guns. It is supposed to stand up very well. YOu might look into that.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&biw=1272&bih=602&q=duracoat&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=&oq= |
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_________________
My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
BB Marksman 1010 (1979) |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:54 am |
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| Slavia |
| Moderator |
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| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
| Posts: 4382 |
| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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I use cold blueing solution on small parts, but I haven't had much luck blueing larger surfaces. It looks blotchy and rubs off. You might ask at gun shops about hot blueing. Either way, the surface has to be absolutely free of any rust or grease (including fingerprints).
I have never used Duracoat, but I've read only good things about it. When I paint metal I use a self-etching primer from the automotive section at Walmart. It sticks way better than any other primer I've found. Again, the surface has to be absolutely clean, but with paint it can be rougher. In fact, rougher is better, because it gives the paint something to grip ("tooth"). I use a wire brush in the drill press. When the paint is dry to the touch I bake it in the oven for 10 Min. at 250 degrees F. Any hotter or any longer and I get bubbles. |
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 ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 4:36 pm |
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| Crosman140 |
| Senior Member |
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| Joined: 13 Dec 2008 |
| Posts: 663 |
| Location: USA |
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It has been 25 years or so ago that I tried cold bluing. It rusted very quickly. I had to keep a ton of oil on the surface to keep from doing so.
If you don't mind spending a little money on it, hot-bluing is best, as Slavia mentioned above. |
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_________________
My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
BB Marksman 1010 (1979) |
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