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SMP · Silver Status Member

I am planning on making a custom stock for a couple of air rifles and I was wondering if anyone had any advice on some good web links or a recommended book. I'm looking for more guidance on the finer details of jigging and fixturing, grip angles, etc rather than "this is wood, this is glue".

My basic plan is a fairly wild glue lam of pau ferro and bocote for myself and tulipwood and something else for the Mrs'

I've done a stock before for a Lee Enfield Mk IV but that was a rather traditional design out of walnut.

sniper · Silver Status Member

I just bought this today.

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/

SMP · Silver Status Member

Just what I was looking for. Thanks much

SMP · Silver Status Member

Well I bought a slab of claro walnut today and some bubinga for the tip and furnishings. Spent the night rough planing it. Layup starts tomorrow.

sniper · Silver Status Member

I'm glad that e-book was only $10. Neutral

I won't knock it. Good buy for a total newbie. Neutral

SMP · Silver Status Member

Ditto

I lacks the intricate stuff I was hoping to find, but it's a good reference to have around.

720fly · Veteran Member

I'm in the same boat, looking for a start, have the will, material, tools, and stakeout blankly at it all

SMP · Silver Status Member

I've leapt into the abyss and started. I have a running thread on the Ca Na Da forum Laughing

http://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/topic38534.html

720fly · Veteran Member

The interns are my issues, all the outer stuff falls in easy! Are the insides all the same cuts for a break barrel? The gun is a B-26 wish I had the broken stock to look at. Then it wouldn't be so challeging
Anyone got two cents on this?

SMP · Silver Status Member

I'm doing a break barrel as well.

My plan is to router a single groove from tip to the rear of the tube which is equal to the barrel breach block + a hair to the depth of the linkages

Then I will router out the breach channel to the depth of the linkages and to the width of the tube + a hair
So I'll have a square sided channel the length of the spring tube and a narrower slot out to the tip.
I measured the tube to 30 mm so I picked up a 30mm forstner bit and I am using this to drill out tube support blocks. These blocks get cut in half and trimmed to fit inside the groove. That way you can position them as required for tube support.

Then mortise out the trigger group.

I used calipers to do my measuring and figured out the depth of the channel by measuring the from the top of the tube to the bottom of the linkage and then subtracting one half the tube measurement. Because the tube will sit exactly half in the wood and half out.

What I can say is I was stumped too until I picked one single point from which everything else is referenced. I picked the rear hold down lug to be my reference point

SMP · Silver Status Member

I just had a look at the B26 diagram and the nice thing is it's a one piece linkage so you don't have to worry about machining the long flat that the roller for a two piece linkage requires.
So after the half round support blocks are glued in you just need to router a slot just wide enough and deep enough for the linkage in the half round blocks

720fly · Veteran Member

Thank you for the insight, sounds good, it's a deffinate starting point. I thought it would require a bit more. You just confirmed my first thought, I've got a endless supply of materials, and need to start making some saw dust.
Best of luck on your journey as well

SMP · Silver Status Member

Good luck to you as well. I have the glue up completed and I will probably get to routing the channel today...If MMP let's me Wink

SMP · Silver Status Member

Here are some pics of the work in progress

Basic blank with layout sketched on

Rough cut out with adjustable cheek piece sitting in it's slot

Clamping on the Wenge tip and grip cap

This is a shot of the roughly machined channel. The wenge tip was cutoff because of bad tearout from routering the channel. I'll put another tip on and router the narrower channel for the barrel once the mortising is done.

SMP · Silver Status Member

I clean up the end of the channel so I can but the tube up where it will sit then I can accurately mark the length of the trigger group mortise.

Make up a scratch stick to mark the exact center of the channel. Measure the distance across the channel preferably with calipers and mark half that distance one a small scrap. Stick a tack into the scrap on the mark and cut the head off.

Mark the center line of the channel with the scratch stick. flipping the stick around and marking from the opposite side ensures you have found dead center

Usually the trigger opening can be narrower than the trigger group mortise. In my case it was a 1/2" and I drilled that out first with a forstner. Then cleaned it up with a chisel.

Next I over drill the mortise with a forstner to a width that will accommodate the body of the trigger but not any pins that protrude. This is only drilled down far enough to allow the trigger block a 1/16 of space below it.