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Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:24 pm |
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| Mark5043 |
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| Okay guys..so about a year ago I did the stock on my Disco as it came in a VERY rough condition.It turned out great,and even though the oil finish..."6 coats,using #0000 steel wool to level it out between coats"...has held up well,I'm thinking of applying a coat of wipe on poly for added protection.My question is this....Can the poly be applied directly over a cured oil finish without any problems or funky reaction between the two finishes? |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:08 am |
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| Slavia |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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| I used a clear satin spray poly over Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil on my Mendoza, and it worked fine. Be prepared for more effort in rubbing out/leveling the poly - it's much harder than the oil finish. |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 2:48 pm |
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| Mark5043 |
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| Slavia wrote: |
| I used a clear satin spray poly over Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil on my Mendoza, and it worked fine. Be prepared for more effort in rubbing out/leveling the poly - it's much harder than the oil finish. |
Okay great...thanks for the tip.I figured poly would be harder to level out,but that's a good thing..
My concern was producing a reaction resulting in hazing or whatnot...I love to see that grain "pop"
Funny thing is that being poly is really just "plastic"like the clear coat finish on a car,I have everything I need.I was a Pro auto detailer/shop manager/chemical distributor for many years.I literally have shelves of stuff for poly finishes.Were talking cleaners,compounds,polishes,brighteners,sealers,and waxes up the wazzoo.All commercial grade stuff....
I have the feeling this stock will shine like a bowling ball when I'm done....
Perhaps a-little extreme for some tastes,but it will be fun....
Upon receiving the Disco I was shocked at how rough the stock was.If it hadn't been for the fantastic deal I got,I would have sent it back.Never thought I'd be worried about slivers from a gun stock....
It took quite a bit of time to get it to my liking....Old detailers seem to have a touch of OCD.....  |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:46 pm |
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| packrat |
| Senior Member |

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My advice would be to send a PM to "sniper" I think he could be of great help to you....... he's posted some pictures of some of his work, and it looked GOOD to me  |
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_________________ HEY !! This getting old thing is NOT for sissies... |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:01 pm |
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| walter |
| Veteran Member |

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post us pics when your done.  |
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_________________ modified 1377c. first gen.
Beeman hw97k. 177.cal. |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:33 pm |
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| sniper |
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one thing to do mark is rub the stock down with a clean rag soaked
in either rubbing or de-natured alcohol. it will degrease it without
leaving any residue.
if you really wanna get tweeked out on it sand it in between coats with 400 or finer. I recall slavia doing a final rub with paste wax. |
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_________________ I believe in gun control,
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:49 pm |
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| Mark5043 |
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| sniper wrote: |
one thing to do mark is rub the stock down with a clean rag soaked
in either rubbing or de-natured alcohol. it will degrease it without
leaving any residue.
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Very cool thanks...I've got both.May have to pick up some more tack rags though for sanding between coats,as I think I'm out,but no biggie....
I might even get tweeked out enough to do a final color sanding with "Bufflex"2500-3000 grit,and polish out like I used to do on show cars at my shop.Turns out like a mirror....  |
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Last edited by Mark5043 on Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:02 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:54 pm |
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| Mark5043 |
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| walter wrote: |
post us pics when your done.  |
Will do...  |
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:11 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Quote: |
| if you really wanna get tweeked out on it sand it in between coats with 400 or finer. |
Definitely. You don't have to grind on it, either - all you're doing is knocking off the high spots. The next coat fills in the low spots, until eventually you get a nice level finish. The sanding in between coats also gives the next coat something to grip (gives "tooth").
| Quote: |
| I recall slavia doing a final rub with paste wax. |
Correct. After the last coat I rub it out with automotive rubbing compound, just to kill the gloss. Then I wax it for mechanical protection. By that I mean that the wax lets little hits and dings slip off, instead of gouging into the finish. This is my favorite:
As for the poly over oil question, I don't think it got too hazy:
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Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:20 pm |
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| Mark5043 |
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| Slavia wrote: |
As for the poly over oil question, I don't think it got too hazy:
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Looks very nice!Is that truck bed liner on the grip,and forearm portion of the stock? |
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Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 12:15 am |
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| Slavia |
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| Quote: |
| Is that truck bed liner on the grip,and forearm portion of the stock? |
Stippled wood with the same finish as the smooth parts. The adjustable cheek piece is covered with padded toolbox drawer liner. The black shadow area under the cheek piece is satin black paint covered with the same oil/poly as the rest of the wood.
The stippled areas are added wood, to bring the fore-end down and the grip angle more vertical. The stippling hides the glue lines. |
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Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 12:42 am |
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| Mark5043 |
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| Okay I see.Nice touches there Slavia.After doing a-little thinking,I've decided to tone down the gloss when I apply the Poly.High gloss is cool,but being that the metal work on the Disco's are kind of Satin like in appearance I'm thinking that high gloss wet look on the stock won't fly..... |
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Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:03 am |
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| Slavia |
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Maybe take a trip down to the local gun store and look at the stock finishes (especially shotguns). You'll probably find some really glossy, lacquered stocks, some satin or flat, and some almost-no-finish military types. It might give you an idea of what direction you want to take.
I also like to look at guitars. Some of them have pretty amazing finish work. |
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Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:05 am |
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| rsterne |
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What about stripping the old finish?.... I have three Crosman 140s I want to refinish.... ie down to bare wood, restain, and then oil.... What's the best way to remove the old finish?.... I know I will have to sand, but does anyone have recommendations for stripper, etc?
Bob |
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_________________ Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal: Too many to count! |
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Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:41 am |
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| Mark5043 |
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Hi Bob.... even though there are a great number of chemical wood strippers available at your local hardware store,I did mine the old fashioned way....sanding.My concern with strippers was leaving a chemical residue behind etc.If you want to go the chemical route try acetone first,as it is chemically neutral,and leaves no residue.I've done several pieces of furniture this way,and it works well.Here's another good way to strip a finish,but its pretty time consuming... I thought it was cool how you can steam out dents/dings etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p21MKDi3r8o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_Z_h76Sd1w&feature=channel
Slavia,and Sniper...how did you guys do yours? |
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