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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:31 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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| And i'm pretty experienced at polishing metal and work in a field where i do a lot of work disassembling and repairing mechanical things. So de-burring that area should be a breeze. |
You loosen a setscrew, push a pin out, and the piston can be removed. A small piece of 600 or 800 grit emery cloth rubbed back and forth with a pencil eraser takes care of the burr (the hole is something like 3/4" into the piston). Clean out any grit, replace the "O" ring (if necessary), and put a thin film of silicone or PTFE grease on the inside of the cylinder. That's it.
My factory seal went in less than six months. After de-burring, the replacement seal has about three years and counting. |
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 4:33 pm |
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| deadrats |
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| yeah, i got that from some sites i found showing how to do all sorts of things to them. I wanted to wait and see if someone could tell me whether i can somehow use my laser on it with that small 11mm rail on top. I think i'd need a adapter mount, but i don't want to make it even further above the barrel because it makes closer shots a guessing game if it's not sighted in real close. But i think i'll just order it, what the heck. Not much to lose, and if it's too loud i'll use it when the neighbors aren't home and switch to the C11 when they are home. I just love the fact the seals can be replaced easily and with generic O rings. |
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 10:20 pm |
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| Tdubya |
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| Joined: 07 Oct 2009 |
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| Location: Jefferson City, MO |
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[quote="deadrats"]yeah, i got that from some sites i found showing how to do all sorts of things to them. I wanted to wait and see if someone could tell me whether i can somehow use my laser on it with that small 11mm rail on top. I think i'd need a adapter mount, but i don't want to make it even further above the barrel because it makes closer shots a guessing game if it's not sighted in real close. But i think i'll just order it, what the heck. Not much to lose, and if it's too loud i'll use it when the neighbors aren't home and switch to the C11 when they are home. I just love the fact the seals can be replaced easily and with generic O rings.[/quote
I doubt that the P17 is any louder than your C11. They just have a little pop.
My Daisy 15xt CO2 is louder. The P17 has a great trigger and very accurate. One of the better airgun deals. |
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 10:41 pm |
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| deadrats |
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| I started to order it but decided to wait till i can get an answer to one more question. My C11 is BB not pellet. But on the other hand it's rated at 480 FPS. The reviews seem to suggest it lives up to it's FPS rating. The P17 on the other hand has an actual velocity test in one of those blogs and most pellets give under 400 FPS. the question is whether i will really have much more knock down power with the beeman just because it's firing a 177 pellet instead of a BB. It's a single shot while the C11 is semiauto too, so unless theres considerbly better energy i'd actually have a LESS effective gun against rats. If it's going to be close i may as well just stick with the c11 i suppose since i can fire as fast as i need to if i don't drop then with the first shot. I don't mind at all paying the cheap price of under $50 shipped for the P17, but if i gotta load each pellet seperately and it's not even going to be considerably stronger, it will be a waste of money. thoughts? |
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 11:59 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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Let's say a steel BB is 5 grains. At 480 FPS that would be 2.6 FPE. Look in the pistol section of this forum, and there are several references that suggest that the P17 can shoot a normal pellet (say, 8 grains) at about 410 FPS. That's 3.0 FPE - not much different.
If the C11 is accurate enough for your task (and offers backup shots) then you may already have the tool you need. |
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Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 12:15 am |
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| deadrats |
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Thats what i figured, thanks.
My only issue with the C11 as far as accuracy isn't the fault of the gun itself. The gun actually shoots about 1" groups at the ranges i typically shoot them at. Good enough unless i'm going for exacting shots like a head shot, but i don't usually have time for that anyways, as they move a lot. The problem is the fact that the lazer is so far under the barrel that when i sight it in for the typical range i shoot them at, whenever it's shorter than that is shoots way high due to the laser being so far under the muzzle. It would be no problem if all my shots were say 15 feet and further. But at short ranges that i end up shooting at them there always a big difference between say 6 feet and 15. So i have to try and remember to aim low when closer etc. I don't like that, but i can't see a way to get the laser very close to the muzzle. |
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Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 12:42 am |
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| deadrats |
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| By the way, is there an online calculator that will calculate energy from a given velocity and round? |
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Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:14 am |
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| BBgunNoob |
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| Location: Pa |
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| deadrats wrote: |
| By the way, is there an online calculator that will calculate energy from a given velocity and round? |
there's one on this site go to the home page or just Google fpe calculator |
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Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:05 am |
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| deadrats |
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Thanks !
EDIT: seems odd that it doesn't take into consideration the ammo. Certainly a 22 has much more than 177 regardless of the weight, no? The wider head seems like it would put more energy on the target even if you were talking the lightest 22 and heaviets 177. then there BB vs pellet. so i'm not sure how accurate the FPE of 177 pellet @ 400 vs BB @480 really is. The calculator doesn't take into account a round steel projectile vs a soft pellet shaped one. wouldn't you think the pellet would cause much more damage due to the shape and possibility of expansion and tumbling? |
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