Air Gun Home :: View topic

sureshot18 · Member

Is there any way to lighten the trigger pull on this gun without replacing it with grt 3 trigger or the gtx trigger?

AirGunEric · Site Admin

Other than doing your best with sanding/polishing things- not without major re-fabrication of the trigger blade- at which point the aftermarket triggers start to look more and more attractive.

sureshot18 · Member

so what part should i sand and pollish? and is it better to have a longer second stage length or a shorter one?

broommaster2000 · Moderator

There should be two springs in there if I remember correct. Shortening or removing one should greatly improve it.

But I'm sorry, that's all I can recall. Neutral

kanyon · Silver Status Member

There sure is....almost as light as a GRT...
A GRT is light because there is no trigger return spring...
GRT relys on the sear spring to return it....

Remove the return sping in the G1 trigger...
its the one inside the trigger blade...Hair clip style spring..
Done it to a Kral...what a diffrents...light...
You may have to play with it to get it moveing freely
they tend to be a bit tight,,,make sure theres NO burs
on the pivot pin holes....

Pete

broommaster2000 · Moderator

sureshot18 · Member

i took the return spring out of my gun, now the trigger moves freely,that is normal right? is this going to harm my gun?

AirGunEric · Site Admin

I don't think this is a good idea- the aftermarket triggers don't use this spring, but they have an entirely different geometry to compensate for it.

Just polish up any metal surfaces that rub on one another- anything else is going to require fabrication to improve the trigger.

sureshot18 · Member

so you think i should put it back in?

AirGunEric · Site Admin

I do. If you have the ability to cut a new trigger blade, that's one thing, but just removing the support spring makes for a sloppy setup. Sure it may seem lighter- but "lighter" and "sloppy" aren't really the same thing- you have not actually resolved anything except now it's easier to shoot unintentionally if your finger is anywhere near the trigger.

Slavia · Moderator

I did my own trigger mods on my G1, and it works great. I learned two things: One, that I was able to do it, and two, that I'll never do it again. $35.00 USD is cheap compared to all the monkeying around.
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=1760&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45

The original G1 trigger moves through the first part of its arc without touching anything at all (the so-called "first stage). When it finally contacts other parts it feels heavier because it's pushing on something ("second stage"). The adjusting screw just moves the sear closer and closer to the point of discharge. The issue I have with the original design is that if you adjust it so the second stage starts a hair's breadth from the point of release, then a good bump could also set it off.

Since the trigger doesn't touch anything during the first part of its travel, it needs its own spring to return it to the full-forward position. Removing that spring will definitely lighten the pull, but it leaves the trigger free to flop around. When you put your finger on the trigger, you won't know if it is all the way forward, or poised just on the brink. If you shoot without that spring, I would definitely turn the adjusting screw out some and have it pointed in a safe direction when your finger gets any where near the trigger.

kanyon · Silver Status Member