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benjamin mod 137 and 250 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:26 pm Reply with quote
chckbrkr
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hi, would like any hints or procedures on removing the valve assembly from Benjamin 137 and 250 pistols. i have made the "valve tool"... i can get the valve out...but would like to do the least amount of damage, also which one to start on (destroy) first. these pistols will not be sent off for repair. thank you for any inforrmation, chuck
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:33 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Which specific "valve tool"? Can you post a link or picture?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 10:10 pm Reply with quote
chckbrkr
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hi Eric, page four,center, of this manual shows tool...

crosman.com/pdf/manuals/B132-OM.pdf

the o-rings and seals must be "glued" solid to the chamber by this time. what would be the best way to dissolve these, heat or chemicals? hacksaw!

all pins and screws are removed... chuck
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 10:33 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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The o-rings will most likely hardened, split and maybe gummed up in places. Put some very thing oil down the tube to see about softening things up for removal.

As for which pistol to experiment on first, the two are "worth" about the same on the used market ($100.00 if in very good condition)- so the choice is yours. You are more likely to find replacement seals/orings for the Co2 gun easier- the pump cup on the pumper might be an issue.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:29 am Reply with quote
chckbrkr
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thank you, will try Trichloroethylene and Kroil...
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 10:16 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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No- keep the chemicals out of the guns- just use a thin oil. If you start pouring chemicals/solvents you risk ruining valve poppets which can have plastic components. If the seals are dried/falling apart, all you need to do is loosen things up for disassembly, not try to disintegrate them. Once the gun is apart you can clean however you wish in a less overwhelming manner- i.e. brushes and Q-Tips.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 5:49 pm Reply with quote
chckbrkr
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oops.....will heed your advice and dry out the valve. i was told that the melting point of o-rings is about the same as solder. i expect to learn quite a bit from this project.

thanks for the information, chuck
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 10:24 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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I've never been inside the pistol models you mentioned, but a Sheridan is similar in design, so some of this might apply:

The valve body doesn't come out like on a Crosman 2240 or 1377 - the front half is soldered in place. You need the tool to reach in from behind to unscrew the rear half of the valve body. The rear half is sealed against the front with a lead ring, not rubber.

I wouldn't use heat or chemicals. Eric's suggestion to use a light oil is good.

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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 1:00 pm Reply with quote
chckbrkr
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hi Slavia, i made the tool and removed the back part. from the drawing of the tool, i looks like the inside is threaded (???) to remove the inner parts. will not take the torch or hacksaw to it...yet.

pistol was stored in a garage for some years, trigger/stock frame completly fell apart, wood and everything else in good shape.

will try to find some info on the Sheridan as there is not a whole lot of info on this one.

thanks much, chuck
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 2:58 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
from the drawing of the tool, i looks like the inside is threaded

You're probably right. Here's the Sheridan tool (I have no idea what thread that is):

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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 9:37 pm Reply with quote
chckbrkr
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hi, thank you for the picture of the tool. i'll finish the tool a soon as i measure the thread size...should be able to take the valve apart now...

thank you again for your help, chuck
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benjamin mod 137 and 250 
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