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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:56 am |
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| sniper |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Location: Star, Idaho |
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feeling green.
the storm i bought from packrat. this is 5 coats of stain made from
green oil based paint-50/50 with lampblack utc.
8 coats of satin oil based poly.
i used 50/50 paint thinner and naptha as the vehicle.
the final mix was about 1 part color 3 parts thinner.
i wanted a green to contrast the red on my 392.
it came out how i wanted.
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Last edited by sniper on Sun Feb 07, 2010 2:43 pm; edited 1 time in total _________________ I believe in gun control,
If there's a gun around I
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:17 pm |
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| Slavia |
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Very nice. You can still see the character of the wood without the stain being muddy. The green is a nice change in a world of red and brown wood.
What does utc mean?
After your single-handed promotion of the poly industry on this forum, I decided to try it on my Mendoza. I'm glad I did - it's tough as nails. |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:35 pm |
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| fritz |
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Very nice. I do like that shade of green with the grain of the wood.  |
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_________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa
Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly.
It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person. |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 2:42 pm |
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| sniper |
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| Slavia wrote: |
Very nice. You can still see the character of the wood without the stain being muddy. The green is a nice change in a world of red and brown wood.
What does utc mean?
After your single-handed promotion of the poly industry on this forum, I decided to try it on my Mendoza. I'm glad I did - it's tough as nails. |
universal tint colorant. PRO-LINE is the brand.
compatable with oil and water based materials.
it's what i use on the job to tint primers.
i couldn't find any black oil based paint in my garage
so i went with utc instead.  |
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_________________ I believe in gun control,
If there's a gun around I
want to be controlling it....... |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 3:08 pm |
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| sniper |
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one more note to add...
this is the least amount of sanding i've ever done on a stock
the first 6 coats of poly were shot wet-on-wet in one day
after an overnight dry inside the house hanging near the furnace
it was painstakingly sanded with a very worn down piece of 320.
the final 2 coats again were wet-on-wet.
and you won't find one single amount of "orange peel" on it.
unless one is very well praticed with these materials i wouldn't recommend
trying to do this as fast as what i do. air tempature is an important factor.
for the novice reading this.... take it slow....  |
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_________________ I believe in gun control,
If there's a gun around I
want to be controlling it....... |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 4:45 pm |
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| broommaster2000 |
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Green-ish. Looks classe!
I'm thinking of stripping the stock on my HW90. There's a thick layer of crap on it (admitted by the pre-previous user) that I'd like to take off. The pre-previous user of this gun said he'd do it again and take a bit more care doing it.  |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:25 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Sniper - what's your opinion regarding chemical stripper vs. sanding the old finish off? |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:18 pm |
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| sniper |
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slavia,
that's kind of a tough question. i have limited experience with chemical strippers. i've never used it on a stock. only on wood trim (houses) and epoxy porch coatings.
if the stock has engraving or stippling then it can't be sanded off (why i haven't attacked my mrod yet).
i assume if a stock is finished with nothing but a lot of tung oil
a stripper intended for getting the oil out of the grain would be used....
rather then sanding off a clear coating. (why i haven't attacked my M1A)
even if a stock is stained and cleared sanding will always work, it'll just take a bit more sanding to get beyond the top layer of grain which is stained, without oversanding it and stripping the grain itself.
this is why i always say be careful if stripping with 100 grit. it's very easy to go to far.
what's your experience with chemical strippers? |
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_________________ I believe in gun control,
If there's a gun around I
want to be controlling it....... |
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:33 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Quote: |
| what's your experience with chemical strippers? |
Messy and caustic, but if you've got finish in little nooks and crannies it's the only way to go. I have had no luck at all with the "environmentally friendly" strippers - for me, methylene chloride is the best (like Zip Strip). Walmart sells a spray "aircraft" stripper that removes everything, but it dries so fast you can only work on a small patch at a time.
I once refinished an old radio cabinet the size of a desktop computer. I took it to a refinishing place for stripping. It cost a little money, but it was worth it. Not only did they strip it clean, but they also used some chemical to rinse off the stripper. It came back to me clean and ready to finish sand.
The sawdust bin under my tablesaw is a real boon. The sawdust will absorb the stripper and softened finish, and then you can sweep it off with an old brush. That leaves just a film of junk to wipe off with thinner, instead of great big gobs of greasy grimy stripper gunk.
I chemical-stripped a stock for Roy, and it came out O.K., but it was a mess. I sanded the Mendoza stock, and it was a lot more pleasant.
I was just curious if you had feelings one way or the other. |
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Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:56 am |
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| Alstone |
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Nice colour Sniper and photographs well.
Al |
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Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:46 pm |
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| sniper |
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thanks al!
slavia,
there was one product i used years ago. it was on the eves of an old house and the homeowner supplied it. she had to drive to another county to get it.
anyway, it came in a tub the same as joint compound and had the same consistency. the brand was "back to nature" if i remember. it did burn like hell if you got it on your skin.
the way it worked is you take a broad knife and plaster it on to the surface the same as you would joint compound/hot mud.
i had to baby sit it until i saw the paint lift then as it dried you bladed it off revealing virgin wood. very efficient.
i later saw bob vila using something similar on and old fireplace hearth resto-job on t.v.
it was very easy to work with. for more power you'd just put on a thicker layer and vice-versa. i never saw this material again.
in california we are losing every year more and more products in the painting biz because of the state and being a "green" state.
the CAAQMD has an assult ongoing in the industry with the same magnatude as gun control.
a couple years ago i had the displeasure of using aircraft grade liquid stripper-like 5 gallons of it. i'll decline that next job opportunity.
i need to research this mud type stipper and find some. i have 2 furniture projects waiting where sanding won't do it. i'm NOT using the liquid crap either.
but yeah, for smooth wood sanding is the way to go IMO. |
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_________________ I believe in gun control,
If there's a gun around I
want to be controlling it....... |
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Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:08 am |
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| Mark5043 |
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Hey,nice work there Sniper,it turned out well.I wanna see a pink AR stock now......
I had thought about doing something similar to what you did using some poly,and automotive tint from my old shop.Should be super durable.  |
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Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:15 pm |
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| sniper |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Location: Star, Idaho |
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[quote="Mark5043"]I wanna see a pink AR stock now......
quote]
nope. i'm planning the next 2 for the year. a blue so deep it's almost black and one in copper-not gold-not yellow-copper.
maybe.  |
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_________________ I believe in gun control,
If there's a gun around I
want to be controlling it....... |
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 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | another one refinished |  | |  |  |  |
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