Click Here for AirGunHome.com Main Page AirGunHome.com: THE Worldwide Airgun Forum

Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » Welding a springer's barrel block?    View previous topic :: View next topic  Welding a springer's barrel block?   Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:53 pm fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia I got an idea... Oh god... So those of us who have used a shotgun style sling on a break barrel know that the sling loves to slide around if it doesn't fit JUST perfectly. I have some old belts laying around that are nylon/canvas. One of which is a cheap camo pattern. The other is almost a perfect match for the blonde stock on the D34. I figured that an easy- and cheap- way to permanently mount a sling would be to take a chain link or such and simply weld it onto the barrel block. Then the sling could be taken on and off some other means, but the mount is there. It's also secure. The real question is: how much will the heat from the weld affect the metal on the block? I have read that as long as the last 6" or so of the barrel is straight, the shot will go straight. I intend to TIG it, so I can get perfect control of the heat, but I still can't keep it from disappating into the rest of the block, and eventually the barrel. On a side note: I would need to remove the bluing from the block before the weld... any ideas on how to carefully remove just what I need to? _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:56 pm AirGunEric Site Admin Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 6930 Location: "Out There" While you may only really need 6" of straight barrel at the muzzle end for accuracy, you have to keep it aligned properly with the sighting device, whether it be open sights (could be a problem if anything warps) or a scope of some sort. Remove the bluing using lacquer thinner or buffing it off. I'm not committing one way or another that this is a good plan, but I wouldn't mind seeing the end result... _________________ ` I'd say "I care." But I'd be lying. Canadian Airgun Supplier: http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront   Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:00 pm fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia I'm thinking that it would be best on the end of the block, right under the barrel. Since I'm not commited to left or right handed shooting. Going from either side would probably be best, but then I'm forced to sling my rifle on that side. _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 10:11 pm kanyon Silver Status Member Joined: 09 Aug 2008 Posts: 1582 Location: New Zealand Tig weld would be the best strength & aperance... The trick is to internaly purge the barrel as you weld By having Argon gas flowing though it as you weld.. The Argon will desplace the air and stop the internal surface of the bore oxadiseing ..heat & O2 reaction... But if you are welding on the breach block the join where the barrel is pressed or threaded in will act as a heat barrier & reduce the amount of heat that reaches the barrel.. BUT DO THE INTERANL PERGE..... Pete Ps..The breach block is thick enough to drill and tap a thread with out going into the bore....   Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:06 pm fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia Hmm... If I were to put a hole in the block it would be infront under the barrel so I can have an ambidextrous sling. It would be quite tricky to drill/tap a hole in that position. _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 2:44 am kanyon Silver Status Member Joined: 09 Aug 2008 Posts: 1582 Location: New Zealand fritz wrote: Hmm... If I were to put a hole in the block it would be infront under the barrel so I can have an ambidextrous sling. It would be quite tricky to drill/tap a hole in that position. Tricky just takes a wee bit longer.... why dont yer bend a U up with a ID the same size as the breach blocks OD then use the hole that the cocking arm/breach block pivot pin goes though..replace the pin with a bolt "4/5mm" that would go though the sling loop / breach block / cocking arm..... Pete   Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:47 am broommaster2000 Moderator Joined: 10 Mar 2007 Posts: 5714 Location: City of Groningen, Groningen, The Netherlands I've seen this, and where the barrel enters the breech will be fine. I have seen them an inch or two from the breech. Those were big rifles with big barrels though. _________________ BIG GAP   Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 2:42 pm fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia Should have mentioned I would likely do it on a Diana 34, 350, or Super Streak. Kanyon, how should I fill the barrel with an inert gas? Will a 3:1 CO2:Ar mix work? I only have ready access to that, and Helium. _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:32 pm kanyon Silver Status Member Joined: 09 Aug 2008 Posts: 1582 Location: New Zealand fritz wrote: Should have mentioned I would likely do it on a Diana 34, 350, or Super Streak. Kanyon, how should I fill the barrel with an inert gas? Will a 3:1 CO2:Ar mix work? I only have ready access to that, and Helium. Any gas that dose not contain O2 or will go BANG will work.. just put a tee in the gas line to the welder ..with a small tap to adjust the flow "dosn't need to be much"...And stick a peice of plastic tube in the end of the barrel and have the gas flowing though as yer weld... 3:1 CO2 / Argon mix .."argon sheild" will work...mainly used for mig process on steel but has a very low O2 content..... BUT.....if you are going to tig weld it you must have argon gas..   Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:08 pm fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia In shop we either use helium or the CO2/Ar mix. I've gotten clean TIG welds using the CO2/Ar mix on aluminum, stainless, and 12g sheet. I've done aluminum MIG with the same mix (god the splatter left me two nice scars on my knee, just 10 minutes of welding too.), and it works perfect for regular steel MIG. _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:30 pm Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA Quote: I would need to remove the bluing from the block before the weld... any ideas on how to carefully remove just what I need to? Birchwood Casey Blueing and Rust Remover with steel wool works reasonably quickly. Quote: I figured that an easy- and cheap- way to permanently mount a sling would be to take a chain link or such and simply weld it onto the barrel block. This is a sling swivel stud that I made for my Slavia from a carriage bolt. I used the four-sided bottom part of the head as a guide to cut the upper part (with a Dremel and abrasive cutoff wheel). I cleaned up the cut and adjusted the width to fit inside the sling swivel (using a file). Finally, I drilled a hole to accept the sling swivel's pin. There's a lot of "meat" in a carriage bolt head, and it is inexpensive. This kind of stud could be welded or threaded anywhere you want, allowing the use of commercial quick detach sling swivels: I find kanyon's "U"-shaped fixture most appealing. _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 4:52 pm Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND Fritz if you don't want to weld a sling connector on to the rifle, then why not make a bolt on connector and fasten it to the cocking link. Al _________________ Welding a springer's barrel block?     Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum All times are GMT - 5 Hours   Page 1 of 1   All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First  Select a forum Main Forums----------------AirGunHome Q&AGeneral Air Gun Questions and TopicsPicture GalleryTarget Shooting: Casual, Fun and CompetitionHunting, Pest Control, Varminting People/Events/Airgun Issue Discussion----------------Introduce YourselfThe BS TopicClubs/Events/Regional/Political Airgun Issues Maintenance, Modification and Reviews----------------RiflesPistolsAntique, Collector and Novelty AirgunsBB GunsPellets/AmmoOpticsAccessoriesAirgun Smithing Buy, Sell or Trade Forums----------------For SaleWant to Buy   Note: If you are seeing "Please enter your username and password to log in." Your browser cookies have been reset or you need to register to access the topic in question. Use the 'Register' button near the top left of this page. Click Here for AirGunHome.com Main Page Powered by phpBB © 2001-2004 phpBB Group Partial Styling Supplied by Vjacheslav Trushkin Themes Database.