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RatcatcherDino · Member

... do you guys use to zero in a scope?
________
Charlie Sheen

broommaster2000 · Moderator

You zero a scope on the distance that you want it zeroed.

I usually start at about 10 meters/yards.

Rogerflat · Silver Status Member

I've never understood zeroing a scope. My airguns have different POI's just depending ont the day I shoot. So having some zero'd point that my gun is trained in on doesn't exist. Also, the number of clicks it takes to adjust for windage or elevation has never seemed to correspond to what actually happens when you begin adjusting the scope. So if you can't set a zero, and your adjustments from zero don't calculate out right, then what's the point of any of it?

broommaster2000 · Moderator

Rogerflat · Silver Status Member

I'd say that zero it in at the distance you are most likely to shoot things at.

RatcatcherDino · Member

Thanks for the responses.

fritz · Silver Status Member

Use a program like chairgun and figure your where your pellets start to really drop. Zero at that distance, so your pellets are going up and flat until that distance. Then they start to drop off so you are always low or on, not high. That's what I prefer.

EDIT: being able to judge distance well is also a major bonus. It allows for more complex methods.

Alucard · Member

I start at 5 feet and then go to 10 yards, and move back in variables of 10 yards until I hit my designated shooting position. Then I shoot.

rsterne · Moderator

I use ChairGun2 to get an idea of the trajectory of the gun/pellet combination I'm using.... Then I use their "kill zone" feature to select the maximum I am willing to have the pellet hit above and below the line of sight.... That gives the "near zero" and "far zero" ranges.... I sight first at the close one, and then confirm at the far one.... Cool

As an example, with a .22 cal 15.9 gr. JSB Exact at 900 fps, 1/2" kill zone:

Near zero = 17 yards
Far zero = 37 yards
1/4" low at 13 yards
1/4" high at 27 yards
1/4" low again at 41 yards

With this setup, I can hold dead on from 13 to 41 yards and know I will hit within 1/4" of line of sight.... providing I do my part.... Mr. Green

Bob

TONBON · Veteran Member

i alway heard it called "point blank range".
i do mine like bob. all guns, burners and AG's Mr. Green

once you find what you like,and can estimate distance.
this gives the longest"kill zone" without guesstimation.
for a scope w/ mill dots, you might figure ballistics. then choose the "zero" distance to fit you're needs Evil Plot

donwalk · Veteran Member

in order to PROPERLY "zero" a scope you must know the distance(s) you wish to hit with it, then mark each distance zeroed at in some manner so it's repeatable with a known pellet/bullet weight

today's mildot scopes and scopes with calibrated reticles are good for that even though the mildot system is intended and developed to be used as an accurate distance measuring device by military and LE 'snipers'.

there's a device called MILDOT MASTER available that takes the guess work out of the formulas used that most long distance shooters use now.

anyway...i know this will probably ignite a firestorm of controversy when i say this but...the primary function of a telescopic sighting device is to enable the shooter to SEE his target...basically...if ya can't see it, how ya gonna hit it?

think about it...and yes...proper calibration, with the same pellet/bullet at the same range, same weather conditions, wind speed, light, etc, SHOULD yeild dead on hits every shot should it not?

it ain't gonna happen if ya don't hold the rifle/pistol properly/securely and have good trigger contol...why do you think bench rest shooting is normally the most accurate of all?

one of the keys to accurate shooting/zeroing a scope is to make it repeatable..."will this scope/rifle/pistol shooting this XX grain pellet/bullet at XX fps at a target at XX yds/mtrs hit the same place EVERY shot?"

not likely; ever notice that your 'zero' seems to change, even with some very high dollars scopes? it's not the scope...it's, normally, a change somewhere in you, your equipment or enviroment...such as changing pellet/bullet weight/design, hot and cool weather conditions etc, (it's not gonna shoot the same at 1500 ft elevation in 75 degree weather as it would at 4500 ft elevation in thirty degree weather.)

IMO...find out which pellet/bullet performs best for you and your rifle/pistol, select a scope that suits the distance(s) with a MARKED reticle, get a GOOD rangefinder (and use a KNOWN distance range) and calibrate EACH mark for the distance the pellet/bullet strikes when using that mark.

then...spend lots of time on the range perfecting it... Very Happy

of course you can always purchase something like the BORS if you have some serious cash... Shocked

anyway...good luck...

a rather long winded response, i know, but, scopes, selecting and using them properly, is really a bit more complex than one might think. if you think i'm kidding just look at the volumes that have been written on the subject and the number of, and the purpose driven and complexity of scopes on the market. Rolling Eyes

TONBON · Veteran Member

it seems the most important thing with an AG is to have a chrony,(which i dont have YET). need to know your speed if your gonna try to get technical.
once you know this. your prefered distance.
you can use a ballistics program to figure things out.
i go to NORMA ammunitions ballistic page. will go down to airgun speeds and you can add wind/direction.
then, test test test. when you're done, test shoot test shoot.
if all this is too much.
find out how far away most of you're targets are. and use that distance.