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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Rifles » Anyone know how to adjust the trigger on a Beeman? Goto page 1, 2  Next
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Anyone know how to adjust the trigger on a Beeman? 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:13 am Reply with quote
Eatamoose
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The trigger on my Beeman is adjustable, but I don't know how to adjust it. The only thing in the book about it said to not touch the front trigger screw.

There are three screws. Two small ones on the trigger, and a larger one behind the trigger. There is a slot cut out of the trigger guard so you can have easy access to the large screw. I'm assuming this would be the one to adjust?

Right now, the trigger is 6.4 lbs. I'd like to get it down to around 3.5 lbs. I really wish they said something in the manual about this. Like, which direction to I turn the screw to lower the pull weight? And do I turn the large screw, or the rear small screw on the trigger?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:39 am Reply with quote
kanyon
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Have no idea ..but if had to take a guess I would sat the bigger screw is a spring preload adjustment.
trigger adjustments talk about Hi tec guns Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:17 am Reply with quote
TONBON
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Somewhere on this forum is a link to RSE enterprises. if you can find this, he has a page listed explaining how to adjust. also he shows wich parts to stone to further smooth the pull
until i found this, i was lost as well
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:19 am Reply with quote
TONBON
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the first is lenth of 1st stage, the second is lenght of 2nd stage.
the 3rd is pull weight
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 10:39 am Reply with quote
JTPinTX
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Hey, I'm gonna ressurrect this thread, and see if I can get a little more info. I have adjusted on mine some, it is getting better on the weight but I have some more questions. It doesn't seem to be adjusting real fast, seems to take quite a bit of movement on the screws to make much difference. This seem normal? Anyone have any idea how low you can go before you run into any safety issues?

Also, when adjusting the length of the stages, should you turn the screws in or out to shorten the length of the stage? I probably won't mess with the first stage, it is just takeup to me and doesn't really matter, but the second stage is pretty long and creepy. Any way to fix the creep?
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 2:17 pm Reply with quote
broommaster2000
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WHICH rifle?

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 4:35 pm Reply with quote
JTPinTX
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Mine is the Beeman GS950. It is one of the mid level models that come out of the Norica plant in Spain. It has the three screws as stated above, rear is pull weight, front two are length of travel in first and second stage. At least I'm pretty sure that is what the front two adjust, I know for sure the rear adjusts pull weight.
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:29 pm Reply with quote
TONBON
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it should be the same as my RS2.
it's all in here Thumb Up! Thumb Up!
http://webpages.charter.net/guru1/documents/RSE%20Airguns%20-%20Beeman%20RS2%20trigger%20guide.pdf
this shows wich is wich as well as where to polish Mr. Green
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 8:38 am Reply with quote
JTPinTX
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TONBON,

That's pretty close, but not exact. Mine has a third screw back behind the two in the trigger blade. The ones in the blade adjust the lengths of the stages, but the third one which is a larger screw, adjusts the weight of pull. Other than that, they look very similiar. I will have to pull mine back out of the stock and look closer to see the exact differences.

I haven't tried posting any pics on this forum, but I may try if I get a chance. That diagram will help alot though in dissassembly and polishing things up. With that I don't feel uncomfortable at all tearing it down. If I can work a Ruger 10/22 trigger from a creepy crappy 8lbs down to a smooth crisp 2.5 lbs with all factory parts, I'm sure I can do this. Mr. Green Just got to understand what does what before I start. Thanks for the link, I appreciate it.
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 1:11 pm Reply with quote
broommaster2000
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JTPinTX wrote:
Mine is the Beeman GS950.


Just so people know what it's about when they just tuned in. Mr. Green

I see it has a Gamo-style trigger.

I've heard one of the more renowned tuners saying it takes about 30 seconds to tune a Gamo-style trigger. It invovles straightening a small spring and switching one of those adjustment screws... Neutral

I should have written it down. I'll send the guy an E-mail.

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 8:42 pm Reply with quote
TONBON
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your'e right....
the page does not show the 3rd screw.....?
mine is the same. mine had 2 springs(1 inside the other)on the 3rd screw position.
i took out the heavier one. i have some other guns w/ very light triggers. this may be to light for you. xperiment.
doing the stoning helped.
once i found that page,,it cleared everything up.
Mr. Green Evil Plot
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 8:52 pm Reply with quote
TONBON
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since you brought it up.
22/45, volquartsen sear,over and pretravel screws,custom(homemade) brake/weight,homemade superfine target sights w/ white epoxy dot front.
grip mod to match carry peice, extended safety.slingshot mod

Mr. Green

Mr. Green
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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 8:35 am Reply with quote
JTPinTX
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I like all my rifles right around 2.5 to 3 lbs. I can use lighter, but just don't prefer it for several reasons. Mainly I like all my rifles to have approximately the same feel, it helps going from one to another, and a big game rifle shouldn't be too light. Another thing is I have 3 kids, from 17 years to 17 months, and don't like to get triggers too light for them. I do like them sharp, crisp, and free of creep. I had my Encore down to 1lb 4oz, but that was too light. Swapped up one step on the spring and got it back to 2lb 5oz, which is just right for me.

My 10/22 is a real sleeper. It has all factory parts, just heavily modified. Barrel has been cut off the chamber end and re-chambered with a match reamer, and re-crowned on the front. Trigger group worked extensively, bolt squared and headspaced with the firing pin pinned down and the tip re-contoured. Bolt has been radiused and a Tuffer Buffer installed. Action has been pillar bedded. It will really shoot. It really suprises alot of people because it looks like a bone stock nutter DSP on the outside, but will shoot with alot of the top end guns.

I will try to really dig into this trigger on the 950 this weekend and see what I can do to make it tick better. Polishing all the surfaces will help alot I am sure, but it is really the creep that is bothering me right now. I have the weight screw backed pretty much all the way out and the weight is not bad, I can live with it. The creep is really bothering me though. I'm also thinking it might really help to put an ovetravel stop screw in the back of the trigger guard. An overtravel screw doesn't actually change the function of the trigger, but it makes the perception of it much better when properly adjusted.

Oy yeah, that is a pretty sweet 22/45. In a former life I had a bull barrel Mark II that really was a shooter, had some beautiful finger groove rosewood grips on it. It went down the road though after 20,000 rounds or so. Got replaced with a Buckmark, I like that pistol alot also.
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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 1:50 pm Reply with quote
broommaster2000
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Guys, airguns please. Razz

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 4:48 pm Reply with quote
TONBON
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sorry, i luv my 22's.
JT, if you get the trigger group out, you can test it without reinstalling.
If i remember right Rolling Eyes
from the work you mentioned on your other guns, it should be cake.
just be careful pulling the spring. Exclamation
once you play w/ the adjustment screws a little, you should be good.
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Anyone know how to adjust the trigger on a Beeman? 
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