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Jaxom · Senior Member

When you have alot of time on you hands, your brain tends to wander onto things you would like to do when things are better. For me, one of those things was making my own muzzle break. Sure I can buy (when I can afford it) a really nice break from either Joe, or one of the many other ag parts makers on the internet. But I want to make my own!

If anything else I need the experince working with metal. While the emphisis of my engery is going into setting up a weld shop, having the ablity to do some lite machine type work will make me all that more marketable.

Before I get into the design concepts I'm thinking about, I'd like to go over a bit of background of where I came up with the concepts I'm thinking about.

Back in the mid 1990's, Browning began offering some of their rifles with what they called the "boss" adjustable muzzle break. The concept that Browning used was many hunters used primarly one or two rifles for multiple types of game. Hunters also have enough sence to realize the same bullet/powder combo ment for one type of game, it may be over kill or not enough for the next type of game.

Since both the bullet type and the amount of powder is going to determine the vibrations produced when the trigger is pulled, Browning started to think of way to compensate for these varibles. In steps the "boss" muzzle break.

How is this applied then... Let's say a hunter just got a tag to go hunt for some antelope out west. On the very first day the gods looked down upon this hunter and he/she filled their tag. What next? You've booked the lodge and vacation time for a week.. Well now ya can either go praire dog hunting or coyote hunting. For either of these animals you may choose to use the same bullet or even a lighter one, but with more powder, so as to reach out farther. Since you're a good sportsman you've spent hours at the local range practicing with mulitple types of ammo, and you know what setting to use on the "boss" break and just dial it up for the ammo you're using.

Now granted, ag's are not going to see the same pressure and such that a powdered operated rifle will. But the concept still apply. Let's say I'm home for the day hunting my back yard for birds or squirrels. I don't need the power hpa would provide, or a heavy eight eun jin pellets. Co2 and 14.3 grain crossman's will suffice. Another time I may be out in the woods hunting racoons or possum. Then HPA and ein juns would be applicable. Instead of having two differnt breaks I could use just one.

Since I couldn't figure out how to make a break that I could "dial in" simlar to Browning's Boss system. I figured I could just change the weight of the break by using different thicknesses of aluminium bar stock. To make it look asthetically pleasing, I was figuring on using two "disks". One with just a simple bore large enough to slip onto the barrel and down. The second disk would be threaded and would screw onto the end of the barrel. Once the second one was screwed on I could slip a piece of aluminium tube over both, and then use set screws through the tubing into the two disks.

Then I started thinking of other improvments I could make. Then a light bulb went off in my head. What if I could make the break also a barrel extention?

Using the same concept of two disks and a piece of tubing, I could then add a piece of pipe inside the tubing. Disk #1 get's drilled and tapped to match the threads I've will have done on the barrel, then to this I can tap thread for a piece of pipe that has an id of say 6mm (.25" approx), then screw the break onto the end of this, just as before.

In as much as the internal pipe would have no vents/ports this could in no way be constidered being a supressor/silencer. In fact, that'd actually defeat the purpose of extending the barrel! The whole idea is to gain some extra fps/fpe by allowing the hpa/Co2 fully expand and bring the pellet up to it's max speed. This is something that is often over looked when some people talk about building or making a supressor, they bring down the fps/fpe by retaining some of the exanding gasses.

Of course I do realize that this concept won't give me the same power gains as if I had a regular barrel. The lack of rifling and the .5mm (.03") diffrent "barrel" size will prevent this from ever happening. But there should be some sort of gain, over using my "stock" 14" long barrel.

Then I need to figure out how to port all this rear ward. The Browning Boss valve is notorious for sending a louder then normal report back at the shooter. Yet at the same time quiets the down range audiable report.

I can see how you can port a solid stock designed break, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to do it with either of the examples that I'm looking at.

Jax

kanyon · Silver Status Member

Trying to push the pellet while traveling in a over sized tube
You will cause the pellet to become unstable....
the idea of a muzzel brake is the oppisite..strip the air blast as soon as the pellet exits the barrel.

Jaxom · Senior Member

I did however think about this. Ordering another barrel from crosman and cutting that down to use instead of pipe or tube. My concern then would be the point at which it leaves the first barrel and enters the second one. With the skirt of the pellet riding along the rifling, if that junction isn't perfect, it will jam every time.

The only other option would be the to use some 7/16" bar stock and boring a 5.5mm exactilly through the center. Again, I would be concerned about the junction of the two barrles. Although now I wouldn't have the added issue of trying to match rifling from one barrel to the next.

Hmmmm....

Roy · Veteran Member

Has anyone out there conducted extensive experiments concerning muzzle brake tuning and accuracy relationships ? Hmmmm ?

kanyon · Silver Status Member

Slavia · Moderator

TONBON · Veteran Member

Slavia you know more than me..
adjustabilty.
make some threads on the outside of main tube.
sleeve w/ threads on inside.
matching holes at every 90 deg. on both peices.
screw together. if you can find a way to put some detents or fix the outer peice after adjustment. you might be able to adj from fully open ports to fully closed.
i had thought of doing this, but wasn't sure if it's worth it for performance.
cool factor would be way high. Mr. Green

TONBON · Veteran Member

i don't know where i saw it.
might work.
looks cool

Alstone · Moderator & Site Supporter

I would have thought that passing the pellet through a chamber and back into another barrel, and then exiting out to the target, would make it a suppressor, and you would be in deep trouble. That’s if I have understood it right Jaxon.

You could use something like this I know it is a silencer but the first section is an air stripper, and by adjusting the size of the vent holes you can alter the characteristics of the pellet

Al

kanyon · Silver Status Member

Jaxom · Senior Member

Alstone,

You're right, this is border line making a supressor. Something I wish to avoid, since I cannot afford a permit for one at this time. I figured that since the tubing the pellet is traveling through isn't ported in any manor, that this couldn't be concidered a supressor, in as much all the expanded gasses will have to vent through the end of the barrel still giving it a full report.

Mind you I'm only doing it this way because I cannot afford a metal lathe at this time. In another year or so, when I can, I can just bore a hole through solid bar stock and not have to worry about using any other combinations of tube/pipe.

What I'd really like is some suggestions on how to do this without a lathe and yet making it adjustable and not needing to swap "disks", like I'm planning on doing. I'd very much to like be able to dial in different settings simlar to how the Boss break works.

Side bar, I took the plastic front site off the end of the barrel. What a waste of money! Even if it was only $3.00. I didn't need or want it, since I'm planning on going with a scope.

After taking that off I noticed that there's a flattened "notch" on the end of the barrel. Should I get the proper die to thread the barrel, would I need to cut the barrel behind that notch? Or can I just thread the barrel around it. It's like someone shaved 1/16th of the top of the barrel down just abit.

I sure hope I can thread it without having to cut the barrel down. I don't have a band saw, nor can I afford that either. Trying to use my jig or recipical saws, I don't think I could get a perfectly sqaure cut, even if I put the barrel in a vise.

Even if I did, there's the whole issue of needing to recrown the barrel. Then I would need to "blue" the end to prevent rusting. Niether of these things I've done before.

Alstone · Moderator & Site Supporter

yourdaddyjoe · Supporting Member

Jaxom · Senior Member

Alstone,

I was just re-reading the entire thread agian. I think we've got a minor miscommunication issue. When I'm talking about a pipe acting as a barrle or even more barrel that's passing through a larger tube. The tube's sole function is to hold the most forward disk in place.

(note I followed some links from Joe's website, to a metal suppler that sells schedule 40 aluminium pipe with a 6.83 mm ID. That's the smallest they sell).

To assemble what I'm talking about. First I'd screw on the rear disk to the barrel of my 2300, that I would screw the barrel extention into this disk. This will not have ANY holes, or slices. The second disk(s) will screw on to the end of this "barrel. To make everything look nice, I then slip a piece of tubing over both disks and secure with set screws.

By not drilling any holes or such into that "barrel" pipe inside the tub, ALL the gass must exit the end of the "barrel". The variblity of this comes by how tight I screw the second disk onto the "barrel" I've made, before I tighten down the set screw on that end.

Alstone · Moderator & Site Supporter

From what your saying Jaxom feeding gas into a closed chamber with just an exit hole at the other end is in fact a silencer, once the gas as expanded then restricted you reduce the sound pressure wave, therefore reducing the sound.

Once you let a gas expand into a chamber and put anything in the front of that chamber that reduces the exit diameter you are effectively silencing the gun.

Al

PS: I you are looking for small id aluminium tube, look in a model engineers supply shop, you should get some there.