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 Posted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 2:15 pm |
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| 23ib0d0n |
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How about a 4130 steel muzzle protector?
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1-1/8" od x 0.593" id x 8-1/8" long with a 0.71" > 0.708" taper cut 1/4" deep recess for the 0.708" od barrel sleeve. Threaded end cap has a 1/4" opening that after a several dozen shots with the .22 cal model 52 has remained 'lead smear' free.
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The requested matte finish looks quite ready to blue.
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Fun? Probably not . . . 
A learning curve? Uhhm, yeah . . . that one ! ! ! 
Although the POI is about 4" higher at 30m with this brake, still getting dime sized 10 shot groups with JSB jumbo.  This is the only diana I have that likes the JSB, the others much prefer crosman premiers and logun penetrators.  |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 12:26 am |
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| AirGunEric |
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| Why 4" of raise on the POI? As a flip compensator that seems like a lot of change at 30m. Any idea why so much? |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:09 am |
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| Alstone |
| Moderator & Site Supporter |
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| Joined: 01 Mar 2007 |
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| Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND |
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Nice job 23ib0d0n, now the fun starts when you blue it. Does the end cap have a 1/4" hole stright through or is it tapered on the inside ?.
AL |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:03 am |
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| 23ib0d0n |
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| AirGunEric wrote: |
| Why 4" of raise on the POI? As a flip compensator that seems like a lot of change at 30m. Any idea why so much? |
Not sure why, but a machinist friend that builds several different versions told me that his brakes also make the POI higher.
I would like to understand why, since designing it that way could be the difference between needing a droop mount or using standard scope rings. 
| Alstone wrote: |
Nice job 23ib0d0n, now the fun starts when you blue it. Does the end cap have a 1/4" hole stright through or is it tapered on the inside ?.
AL |
Blue is just a simple metal oxide surface coating. Brass black followed by Permablue creates a blue coat that can barely be told from a hot blue treatment.
All the metal on this rifle has been cold blued. Could you tell? BTW the 'splotches' on the reservoir tube is where the guncase foam absorbed the protectant oil coat during transport. That oil coating dulls down the gloss slightly. |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:45 am |
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| Alstone |
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| 23ib0d0n wrote: |
Blue is just a simple metal oxide surface coating. Brass black followed by Permablue creates a blue coat that can barely be told from a hot blue treatment.
All the metal on this rifle has been cold blued. Could you tell? BTW the 'splotches' on the reservoir tube is where the guncase foam absorbed the protectant oil coat during transport. That oil coating dulls down the gloss slightly. |
Hi 23ib0d0n
I assume that Brass black is a chemical dye for brass and Permablue is the same for steel, if so what make are they as they seem to do a reasonable job ?. I do somthing similar using Aluminium black and Gun blue.
AL |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:29 am |
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| 23ib0d0n |
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Birchwood Casey, Outers, and Brownells have all worked for me. Certain steel compositions 'dark' better with Alumiblack, which I try to keep handy around the shop. Sometimes it takes a few test spots to see how a particular steel takes a coat. Stripping the oil with acetone or denatured alcohol seems to give different finish results too. So far the best applications seem to be with a high cotton content tissue paper.
Brass and aluminum are a completely different story though . . .  |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:47 am |
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| Alstone |
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Cheers there 23ib0d0n I find the same thing, but I use petrol to clean the item to be blued and usualy a brush to apply , apart from you I haven't seen this method of mixing metal dyes done by anyone else. As for brass and aluminium I don't have much luck with them, especially the edges on aluminium. I use "G96 Brand Gun Blue Cream”, and for aluminium “Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black", I will have to try some of the others to see what results I get.
By the way I mix the diffrent blues before applying, do you put them on separately ?.
AL |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 3:08 pm |
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| 23ib0d0n |
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| Alstone wrote: |
| Cheers there 23ib0d0n I find the same thing, but I use petrol to clean the item to be blued and usualy a brush to apply , apart from you I haven't seen this method of mixing metal dyes done by anyone else. As for brass and aluminium I don't have much luck with them, especially the edges on aluminium. |
Polish and degrease well then spray coat the brass or aluminum with the liquid and keep it damp for as long as it takes to colour as dark as you want it. DON'T touch the fresh coloring with anything and let it dry.
As soon as it dries to the color you like, spray coat it with your stopping oil. {Remoil works well and is cheap here in the US} Any good gunoil should work. Let the part sit undisturbed overnight, and recoat with your gunoil if it looks dry. {Usually I recoat for 6 or 8 times before it quits looking 'dried out' which as far as I know means it is still reacting to the surface of the metal}
Then I like to use a polymer coating like 'Dri Wash'n Guard' or "Blue Coral' to seal the surface finish.
I really ought to build an anodizing bath since I keep working with with so much aluminum.
Another way to 'black' aluminum is using 'Rust Converter' and a scotch brite pad or a sponge. The phosphorus compounds surface color aluminum pretty well but be very careful what you mix since phosphor compounds are some of the most toxic known.
| Alstone wrote: |
I use "G96 Brand Gun Blue Cream”, and for aluminium “Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black", I will have to try some of the others to see what results I get.
By the way I mix the diffrent blues before applying, do you put them on separately ?.
AL |
I put the brass black on and at the point that it is drying, I smooth on the perma blue until the coverage is even. If the coverage isn't as even as I want, then I buff everything with a white metal polish, degrease and repeat. Time consuming but effective. |
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