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TONBON · Veteran Member

hello
i just got me one of those chinese bemans from wally world.
the scope sucked. i didn't even take it back when it broke. sighted it in, 3 shots later, the crosshairs went 35% off. garbage. i got an airgun scope rated for 1000 fps,(?), reverse recoil. found a page online on disassembly,(thanks, don't remember name). stoned the action. again, thanks to whoever posted the info. figured out the trigger settings.
i did all this with the first 10/22 i built, now it's a tackdriver.
now i think i got this beman figuired out. some more minor trigger adjustments. i can stack pellets at 25 yds. not every shot, but the paper sags, and those that don't penetrate get caught in a fold.

aside from the trigger assembly,(which i can copy), what can i else can i do to improve this thing?
it's still touchy to shoot, but imm working on some good shimstack.
are there any piston/spring improvments i can do to smooth this thing out?
i'm only using the 22 barrel. Mr. Green

ihave a p17 i shoot hornets with in 177. Twisted Evil

thanks in advance for any suggestions.

AirGunEric · Site Admin

For now the best idea is to either to disassemble and lube it properly and polish any ragged edges in the trigger group, otherwise keep shooting it for a few hundred rounds to break it in completely and see how it's doing then.

TONBON · Veteran Member

I'M GOOD ON THE TRIGGER GROUP.
caps. i just finished off a 250 box of daisy pellets. fairly tight, fairly consistent. now im starting abox of benjamin 14.3 gr. diablos. got 2.
we'll see how they do.
i guess i need to get the right kind of lube for this thing. iv'e seen what to get elsehwere.
i'm gonna get some .2 mm shim to make ashimstck on either end of this thing. maybe 6 or 8 on either end. i can get these where i work in the proper sizes.
i'm farly handy witha mill and lathe. i'm just wonder in' what else i can do.
i already do gunsmith work, im just learning on these.
im not gonna get a high doller gun. but i have the skill and ability to do almost anything to this one.

TONBON · Veteran Member

I TOOK THE SPRING APART WHEN I DID THE TRIGGER GROUP.
THATS A REAL PAIN INTHE BUTT. I NEED TO FIND A BETTER WAY TO DO THAT AS WELL

broommaster2000 · Moderator

Please refrain from using caps lock. It makes you appear to be screaming. Mr. Green

With Shimstick I take it that you mean a springguide. You should make them out of Delrin, and make sure they fit tight. If it's a high powered rifle, then indeed, you should research into it a bit, if you didn't already (I think you did).

Some spring guides need an extra washer to protect it against the spring. Also, the small spring guide in the piston, or Tophat, shouldn't (obviously) touch the large one. It shouldn't be to long either, but I think you'll see what I mean when you look around on the interweb a bit.

By the way, did you launch the trigger group trough the room while taking it apart? You could also try building a spring compressor.

Take care and mod safe! Exclamation

cw · Banned

You could lubricate it properly (moly/graph) and/or
tune it to be smoother and easier to be accurate with.
A tune will make it a lot less hold sensitive.

A high performance seal, more spring preload,
thrust bearings at each end of the spring, better
fitting spring guides and/or spring tars.

I also have a P17 that I shoot hornets with. I like to set a piece of
raw chicken out and wait for the baldface hornets to show up.

Slavia · Moderator

cw · Banned

I would recommend NOT using a seating tool with
a springer. You want the end of the pellet's skirt to
be even with the breech and not be pushed in even
a very small amount. Otherwise the piston will not
have enough resistance and the edge of the seal
will slam into the end of the compression tube and
most likely will be damaged.

Over the years, I have seen this happen more than
once.

There is a chamfer machined into the breech on
most springers that the pellet skirt should just contact.
If you use a seating tool, you will feel the pellet skirt
have a little resistance before it slides past this chamfer
and then become easier to push. You want the air
pressure from the piston to have to push it past this
resistance point so that it provides a cushion for the
piston and it's seal.

Slavia · Moderator

TONBON · Veteran Member

thanks for the input
sooo,
#1- i should try and load flush with the chamber face. i have a homemade delrin seater i can regrind with a flush face,(always flush, all the time).
#2- by shim stack, i was refering to adding washers between the spring and (soon to be) delrin spring guide. i have access to .5 mm shim washers. i thought i could use about 6 or 8,each end. it would not add alot of preload with a thin washers.
#3- when i make a new spring guide. should i go for max possible length?
i would think an inch of clearance,(lenthwise), would be enough.(between the guide and front of spring/rear of the insert/piston.

i didn't think about it initialy, but yes this is a different animal to shoot compared to a firearm. the spring action takes some adjustment getting used to.
i did not shoot anything across the room,when removing trigger group, but i can see it happening.
if anyone has an idea on a spring compresser, i'd welcome a photo or drawing. Mr. Green

TONBON · Veteran Member

i've polished the contact points on the trigger. i got the pull down under3+- lbs. the gun originaly had 2 springs for trigger weight, now i'm only using the lighter one.
i'm just curious on what may be available aftermarket. seals/springs, whatever.
luckily, i live in the country, and can shoot daily. this one will get lot's of use.

cw · Banned

If you add the thrust washers, be sure and lap them together
to insure that both spring ends can rotate freely. As a coil
spring is compressed and decompressed the ends twist in
opposite directions. If the spring ends are not allowed to
travel freely, gain traction against and grab the action at
varying degrees, it will cause a twist sensitivity. This can
make some spring guns very challenging to acquire any
accuracy with.

TONBON · Veteran Member

the washers i can get come with an almost mirror finish.
i'll lap em' before i install.
how thick of a washer should i use?
i thought more, thinner would be better.
like i said, i would try and get at least 6 or 8 on either end.
This would only add about 6-8 mm total,(for both ends combined).
as long as they are not so thin that they deform under stress.

cw · Banned

Don't go too thin or they might get torn up. Anything over
1mm should survive.

The only limit that I've run into is coil bind to the point of
not being able to cock the gun far enough for the piston catch
to engage the sear.

TONBON · Veteran Member

i think i'll use a combination of thick sandwiching thin. thick to hold up w/ a thin or 2 in between to create more sliding surfaces.
my next concern is making some kind of compresser for the spring.
and how to get around the trigger assy. to install or remove it.
if i can figuire that out, then everything else is gravy.