 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | The best way to lubricate an Airforce rifle breech. |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:11 pm |
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| cw |
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Last edited by cw on Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:06 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:34 pm |
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| Alstone |
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Thats a nice and clear little guide there CW on lubing Airforce rifles.
Well done!
Al |
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 8:21 am |
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| Rogerflat |
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I ordered a new lothar barrel for my talon and took my old barrel off last night. First time I'd ever done that. I was amazed at how small it was. It's only a 12" barrel. Probably going to have to wait about 10 days before the new kit arrives, but it'll be fun once it gets here. Kind of like having a new rifle again.
I just hope my gun doesn't keep malfunctioning once I get the new barrel on and lube her up with silicon. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:47 am |
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| cw |
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Have inspected the o-rings yet? That would be first on my list
for that gun. |
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:12 am |
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| Rogerflat |
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| I've yet to actually locate o rings on my talon yet. I'm thinking they are hiding somewhere in the cocking mechanism and I can't see them without a flash light shining in there. I didn't see the o rings in your pictures either cw. I lost my airforce video so I forget what the guy did to lube those. I'll figure it out hopefully. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:48 am |
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| cw |
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They are inside of the breech slide (the Derlin thing that
the bolt, you push forward to cock, is attached to).
If you take the reservoir off of the gun and look and the end
of the breech, you can see the back o-ring closest to the reservoir.
Here it is, as indicated by a scribe.
It is the o-ring that slides onto the valve in your tank. It slides
onto this suface.
Good luck with your repair. Remember to put the barrel back
in before you remove the Nylon power adjuster screw, so that there
is no tension on it. Otherwise you will have to replace it as well. |
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:28 pm |
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| Rogerflat |
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| I don't know why or how I'd remove the power adjuster screw (and I'm not sure what that is exactly either). But I did turn the power wheel down all the way when I took the barrel off, since you said to do that. But I don't know what that does. I've never put a barrel back on the gun yet either. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:16 am |
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| Rogerflat |
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I just got my new barrel and silicon grease yesterday. I've reassembled the talon and put a different scope on it. I swear it's gone from weighing like 6 lbs to probably 9 lbs now. It seems like a totally different rifle.
I got it put together late last night, so wasn't able to fire it yet. I imagine it is going to be REAL loud now.
If only I'd just committed to buting the condor. I'd of saved a little money AND had a more poweful rifle. Although 40 fpe is not bad. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:58 am |
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| broommaster2000 |
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40 Fpe is nog bad...  |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:11 pm |
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| Rogerflat |
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Nothin' worse than bad nog man, nothin'. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:17 pm |
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| AirGunEric |
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Seems like a fair bit of work to lube 2 o-rings! Would it make any sense to run it until the o-rings fail, replace&lube and then run until they fail again?
I'm not trying to make people uptight with that idea- but depending on how long it takes to do this vs. the effects of not doing it and the lifespan of the o-rings without re-lubing- is there an argument to be had? |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:16 pm |
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| Bean |
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| AirGunEric wrote: |
Seems like a fair bit of work to lube 2 o-rings! Would it make any sense to run it until the o-rings fail, replace&lube and then run until they fail again?
I'm not trying to make people uptight with that idea- but depending on how long it takes to do this vs. the effects of not doing it and the lifespan of the o-rings without re-lubing- is there an argument to be had? |
That's pretty much the approach I'm taking. I've CAREFULLY dabbed some lube in there following the AIRFORCE instructions. AND I've purchased a supply of the correct size 90 durometer o-rings. I've got about 3000 rounds through my Talon SS since the last o-ring swap and I'm just starting to notice the increase in sound coming from the breach. I'll be replacing them this weekend.
It really doesn't take long to remove the barrel so it's not a big deal to do it the way CW suggests. However, for a straight o-ring swap, it can be done without removing the barrel and you might be able to properly lube at the same although I have not tried it. See.. http://www.seventyninedesign.com/shoot/Stealth/Breech.htm |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:23 pm |
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| Rogerflat |
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I never lubed mine, cuz I never had silicon grease until last night. But I hadn't shot mine that much, yet I think the rings failed.
I thought putting the barrel in would be hard but that only took a five minutes to do. They made this gun very easy to disassemble and reassemble. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:25 pm |
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| cw |
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The 12 inch barrel is a little harder to get into
the frame and align than the longer barrels. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:14 pm |
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| Rogerflat |
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| I remember the guy in the talonss video said you need special homemade tools. Basically all it was is just a piece of one inch pipe and a paper clip or something. But its not needed for full size barrels. |
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_________________ I done been assisted by the trees and rivers. Never needed any minister to figure my divinity. |
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