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cw · Banned

I would go with the set screw engaging detents in the pivot bolt
head as opposed to the screw coming in from the side and engaging the
pivot bolt threads and/or shank. The area where the contact occurs on
the pivot bolt most likely would become damaged and would wear the
area in the breach yoke to the point of uselessness if the piece were
to be removed and assembled very many times.

broommaster2000 · Moderator

Slavski, something I've been meaning to ask for a while, how does the quality of that rifle compare to the Slavia?

Slavia · Moderator

Slavia · Moderator

After trying all the pellet types in my box, it seems that RWS 9.3 grain Supermags are the most accurate, followed by RWS 8.3 grain Superdomes. The Supermags also shoot a little smoother, probably because of the weight. I therefore decided to tune my muzzle brake for the Supermags.

Now, I have read some knowledgeable sources that say brake position has no bearing on accuracy. I happen to believe that it does. It works with the Browning "Boss" system, and it works with the "harmonic dampener" on the Ruger Mini-14. It also worked with my Slavia 631. The adjustment is very fine - less than 0.5mm will take you from the "sweet" spot to the "ugly" spot.

I made some aluminum washers to fit as shims between the muzzle of the barrel and the end cap of the brake. They were made from an aluminum soda can, with a wall thickness of 0.006." I shot groups with 0,1,2,...etc. washers in place, all the way to 12 washers. (5 shots at 10 meters, indoors, from a rest.)

Three washers did the trick. In factory configuration (no washers) I got a group diameter (maximum dispersion) of 0.635" C.T.C. With those three washers, the result was 0.363."

See this for details on making the washers:
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?p=18030#18030

On to the stock.

Roy · Veteran Member

OK, Slavia, now that you are ready to begin work on the the custom walnut Tyrolean stock, you might like to know that I happen to have available a slightly used Morgan Premium Adjustable Buttplate with the curved pad. This would be perfect for your rifle, and will save you the trouble of fabricating one. The Premium models are constructed of aluminum, and look great ! See it here:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=26879&title=PREMIUM%20ADJUSTABLE%20RECOIL%20PAD

Interested ? If so, maybe we could do some tradin' .

Slavia · Moderator

This week's installment:

I haven't abandoned the idea of a fancy walnut stock, but that's going to be a major undertaking. So....I'll do a few things to the synthetic stock in the mean time.

I often shoot with a sling, and I have a bipod that mounts on a front sling swivel. Walmart had a set on clearance, so the timing was right. Often they come with one machine screw threaded swivel + nut (for the front) and one with wood screw threads (for the rear). There is only one place on this stock to place the swivel - between that goofy arch and the cocking arm slot. The plastic is about 3/8" thick at that point, which is not enough to make a counter bore for the nut, but is enough to grab the wood screw threads. Since the butt is hollow, I was able to use the nut in the rear. The only modification necessary was to grind off the protruding front screw so it would not impinge on the cocking arm linkage.

Now, I know that bipods and springers are not always compatible. I'm hoping that by placing the bipod back towards the center of mass (no choice!) it will work - if it doesn't, then at least I have a place to attach a sling.

The stock didn't fit me exactly, so I made the butt adjustable. (Roy's fancy adjustable butt pad can go on the walnut stock, should we agree on the trade.) I used scraps of aluminum from a pancake griddle that I purchased for another project. It's too thin and too soft to hold a machine screw, so I made threaded rivets out of "tee" nuts. The decorative effect is thanks to a previous thread by Alstone:

http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=1084&highlight=butt

Resonating chambers are good on musical instruments, and bad on guns. This butt stock is hollow. Both to fill in the void and to add weight (to reduce felt recoil) I am in the process of adding a mixture of silicone caulk and steel BB's. I chose the caulk because it is resilient, and will hopefully dampen vibrations.

I would like to bed the action in the wood stock; it is impractical here. (You can see in the photo how minimal the surface area is - just a few thin buttresses.) Likewise, an accessory rail won't work here due to the arch in the stock. So scratch two improvements.

More later.

broommaster2000 · Moderator

Seems like it's getting there. Mr. Green

How much space is there when the barrel is pulled all the way back when it's cocked between the cocking arm and the stock? I sometimes see rifles that still have a fair bit of centimeters left before the cocking arm hits the stock. Personally I think that should be tidy and as minimal as possible. Neutral

cw · Banned

Have you tried grouping with the bi-pod attached yet?

Slavia · Moderator

cw · Banned

Oh, that's right. I forgot. You only WORK on them. You don't like
to shoot them very much.

Slavia · Moderator

It's not that I don't like to shoot. The perpetual improvement program disguises the fact that I can't hit anything.

BCSteel · Member

I was looking back through this thread a bit and saw the part with the washers above and below the spring being used as bearing surfaces. In mine, I just had two thick washers under the top hat so I decided to move one to the bottom of the spring. That one move alone reduced the recoil on my gun by at least half. So now I think I'll try to find 6 thin ones to replace the two thick ones and see if that will make it even better. Then I made the mistake of toying with the trigger group a bit Rolling Eyes

4 hours later I had it all back together again. There was a lot of grinding and polishing and shimming.

Slavia · Moderator

Cliffspot suggested the thin washers back on page 2. If you try it, keep us posted on how it works. I think I will leave mine alone (for now) - it feels pretty good.

I know what you mean about the trigger. The good news is that after about 500 times in and out, you can assemble it in your sleep.

AirGunEric · Site Admin

Silicon caulk and BB's for vibration dampening and weight? Seems complicated- why not fiberglass resin?