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rsterne · Moderator

I managed to get a complete Crosman trigger group for the Marauder Pistol, with hopes of using it on either a 1322 or 1740 I am working on.... The trigger group is built on the same frame as the latest 13XX and 22XX triggers, using the plastic side plate.... It incorporates a drop sear, intermediate link with adjustments for the 1st and 2nd stage, a trigger pull weight adjustment, and an overtravel screw.... In other words, it is completely adjustable, producing a target quality trigger.... although even at minimum pull weight it is probably still a bit heavy for that use.... I would think a bit of tinkering with the springs would soon cure that.... It is much less sensitive to a change in hammer spring because of the intermediate link.... so using a heavy hammer spring won't result in a heavy trigger pull that can't be adjusted out....

The PRod uses a tube of the same dimensions as a 22XX, and as expected, the trigger "worked" when bolted up to the 2240 tube my 1740 is based on.... When bolted onto the smaller diameter 1322 tube, however, it wouldn't cock.... I determined that the problem was that the smaller tube fit slightly deeper into the recess in the top of the trigger frame, which pushed the sear down further than if it was bolted to a 22XX tube.... This made the sear interfere with the intermediate link, and the sear couldn't drop into place on that link to return to the cocked position and catch the hammer.... The solution was very simple.... I just filed a flat on the bottom of the tube just in front of the sear slot to allow the sear to move up further.... The area of the sear which interferred, and the part of the tube I filed away are circled in yellow on the photos.... I just filed the flat until it was the same width as the slot, and about 1/4" long....

Now I had a trigger which would function on the 13XX installation.... well almost.... In order to cock the gun, you had to pull the trigger.... The same thing happened when the trigger was installed on the 22XX.... It turns out that once fired, the drop sear (the part circled in red) is lifted back into place by it's own spring, and the intermediate lever latches, holding it up.... The sear is now sitting in the groove around the middle of the hammer (similar in shape on both the 13XX and 22XX hammers).... and when you go to pull the bolt back the slope on the front part of that groove can't push the sear out of the way like it does with the spring loaded sear on the stock trigger group.... OK, so you have to pull the trigger back to cock the gun, pull back the bolt/hammer, then release the trigger to latch the hammer back.... That's a PITA, but workable.... maybe....

Now on to the next problem.... When you fire the gun, the sear pops up so quickly into that groove that it prevents the hammer from hitting the valve as hard as usual.... Even on 6 pumps, the valve was retaining air.... The solution was to grind away the bottom of the hammer behind the groove so that the sear can't hit it.... You can see the part of the hammer I ground away circled in red.... You have to grind it to nearly the same depth as the groove, for about half the length of the larger diameter.... The same modification would be required on a 22XX hammer....

What does this mean?.... Well, for use with either a 13XX or 22XX hammer, you would have to grind away part of the hammer, and the gun still can't be cocked without pulling the trigger.... This doesn't happen on the PRod because the hammer doesn't have the thinner "waist" in the center, it is cylindrical (with flat sides, but that doesn't matter).... Since it is flat on the bottom, once you pull the trigger to fire the gun, the sear stays down until the gun is recocked.... nothing for the sear to hit or prevent recocking.... An obvious solution on a 22XX would be to purchase the hammer from the PRod (or from a Challenger 2009) and install it along with the PRod trigger.... You get the extra advantage of an adjustable hammer fall, since that is a feature of both guns.... Although I have not tried it, I have heard that filling in the bottom part of the "waist" with JB Weld and filing it smooth works as well (you wouldn't grind the hammer like I did).... As long as the bottom of the hammer is smooth (no groove), this trigger will function normally, and you won't have to pull the trigger to cock the gun.... On a 13XX tube, you will still need to file a small area in front of the sear slot, however....

Those of you who were wondering about using a PRod trigger group on your 13XX or 22XX now have your answer.... It bolts up, but it's not a "bolt-on".... However, it can be made to work with other changes....

Bob

Mark5043 · Silver Status Member

rsterne · Moderator

I put the PRod trigger group in my 2260 Carbine Grouse Gun, along with the hammer from a Challenger 2009 (same as a PRod & 1700P hammers).... It works PERFECTLY, cocks smoothly without having to pull the trigger first, and no change in velocity from the 22XX hammer and trigger group.... HOWEVER, the trigger pull is a delight.... It's light, crisp, and I love the 2-stage feature.... As far as I'm concerned, it's a HUGE improvement.... Anyone considering a better trigger for the 22XXs should consider a PRod (or 1700P) trigger group and hammer.... Don't forget to get the adjusting screw (and the acetal pin that acts as a brake for it).... You may never use the travel adjustment, but without the screw, the hammer just has a hole through it and won't work....

It looks to me that if you have the later style 22XX trigger group with the plastic side plate you might be able to just buy all the PRod parts to go inside it.... I don't know how the cost compares....

Bob

Mark5043 · Silver Status Member