 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | New Disco, 12-15 shots before refill? |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:53 pm |
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| dr7197 |
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| Location: New York |
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| Just got my new Disc .22, really like it! VERY accurate! Only thing is I'm getting just 12-15 shots on 1000 psi with 14.5 g pellets. Is this normal? I had expected double that number of rounds before having to refill. Comments? Suggestions? Thanks! |
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_________________ RWS 350 Mag .22
Leapers 3-12X40
Gamo Shadow .177
Benjamin Discovery .22 |
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Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:52 pm |
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| radar |
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You should get at least 20, maybe 25 power shots from 2000 psi down to the red zone on the gauge.
Do you know what your velocity is? Not leaking-hissng air?
Rob |
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_________________ It's never too late to have a happy childhood. |
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Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:24 pm |
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| rsterne |
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Assuming you are filling to 2000 psi, you should be getting about 24 shots by the time it drops to 1100-1200 at which point the velocity will be down about 4% below peak.... They typically get about 30 shots within a 10% velocity window....
I wonder if the hammer is somehow sticking at the front and holding the valve open longer.... Something is keeping the valve from closing normally.... unless of course you have increased the hammer spring preload or done other mods.... Was it "new", or just new to you?....
Bob |
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_________________ Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal: Too many to count! |
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Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:47 pm |
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| NZ Shooter |
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Am I missing something ?? dr7197 said he's shooting from 1000 psi.
But the replies are mentioning 2000 psi ......
I'm sure I'm not blind.  |
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_________________ Webley Patriot .22 @ 28 fpe
Nikko MountMaster 4x40 AO |
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Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:57 pm |
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| rsterne |
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I think by "on 1000 psi" he meant from 2000 down to 1000.... at least that's how I understood it, and that's how a Disco normally operates....
Bob |
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_________________ Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal: Too many to count! |
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:58 am |
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| NZ Shooter |
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Ah, that explains it, I read it the complete opposite
Mind you, what do I know about PCP's ???
nothing, clearly  |
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_________________ Webley Patriot .22 @ 28 fpe
Nikko MountMaster 4x40 AO |
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:20 am |
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| dr7197 |
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| rsterne wrote: |
I think by "on 1000 psi" he meant from 2000 down to 1000.... at least that's how I understood it, and that's how a Disco normally operates....
Bob |
You are right on the money, rsterne! I pump it to 2000 psi, and 12-15 shots later, I'm down to 1000 psi.
The AR is brand new, fresh out of the box. Hasn't seen 80 rounds through it yet.. I haven't modified it whatsoever.
Not leaking air, as far as the valve staying opened for too long, what could I do to check it? I don't know what the velocity is, I don't have a chronograph.... |
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_________________ RWS 350 Mag .22
Leapers 3-12X40
Gamo Shadow .177
Benjamin Discovery .22 |
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:00 am |
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| SMP |
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Diagnosing a valve hanging open is unfortunately not scientific at all.
The sound can give it away if it's severe enough. Instead of a short crisp pop you might hear a much louder bang with a pronounced duration.
But mainly it's diagnosis based on experience. And Prof Bob has a LOT of experience
If you continue to shoot it there is a good chance everything will work itself in and your shot count will increase.
or
Tear down the hammer and valve assemblies for a quick clean and polish
or
Return it |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:36 am |
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| radar |
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| dr7197 wrote: |
| Not leaking air, as far as the valve staying opened for too long, what could I do to check it? I don't know what the velocity is, I don't have a chronograph.... |
I think you just did. It ain't leaking, and uses too much air. Must be somethign in the valve/hammer/hammer spring is sticky.
Could be dirt. Could be burrs. Could need lube(?)
Send or back or tear it down like Sean said. I would return it rather than voiding the warranty. Just my 2 cents worth. |
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:11 am |
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| yourdaddyjoe |
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The moment you open it, you void the warranty. But in doing so you will learn more about your Disco.
Personally, I'd open her up and polish the heck out of the hammer.
Slip on over to Professor Bob's thread on his 2260. Prime example of hammer pics.
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=8104
The top hammers are stock Disco, I'm presuming after Bob has given them a quick polish. Crosman hammers out of the box are pretty rough. I usually machine my own so I don't have all that galling and they run smoother in the gas tube.
The result will be a much smoother operation and reduced air consumption.
NO PETROLEUM BASED LUBE in or around the air system. It can get explosive!
De-gas/pressurize your Airgun before attempting to work on it.
In order to get the hammer out of the Disco, you will have to remove the breech and barrel.
The trick on a Disco or 2260 is to remove the safety from the trigger group first. You will need a small pick to reach in the trigger group and lift the end of the spring that holds it in.
Remove the stock screw & stock.
Remove the rear trigger screw and breech screw. The end cap holding the hammer spring will pop out and the spring my fly. So be prepared.
Remove the barrel band.
The you can slide the bolt all the way back to get to the .05" hex in the loading port of the breech. Careful, the heads strip easy. I have a straight .05" hex that I insert into the hex and give it a little love tap with a brass hammer before attempting to un-screw. It will tend to loosen it up just a hair so I don't strip the head out.
Watch for the transfer seal under the breech. Should be 2 pieces. one rubber and one steel. Rubber goes against the valve.
(advise 1/4" poly tube tx port mod here)
Once the breech & barrel are off, then slide the hammer all the way back and lift the cocking pin. The hammer will then slide right out.
Polish up the hammer and assembly is the reverse.
Want a hammer spring/power adjuster?
While you have it apart... Get a "hammer spring guide" and take a trip to your local hardware store for a screw that will fit in the end cap just long enough that when you have it tightened down from the rear that you leave at least 1/8" space in the spring area of the cap. If the screw is too long you run the risk of the guide slipping out and binding everything up.
Install the hammer spring first then the guide to the rear. Wait to install the adjusting screw till after assembly.
Then you can per-tension your hammer spring for mo-power!  |
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:46 am |
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| dr7197 |
| Member |

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| Joined: 18 Jan 2012 |
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| Location: New York |
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| yourdaddyjoe wrote: |
The moment you open it, you void the warranty. But in doing so you will learn more about your Disco.
Personally, I'd open her up and polish the heck out of the hammer.
Slip on over to Professor Bob's thread on his 2260. Prime example of hammer pics.
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=8104
The top hammers are stock Disco, I'm presuming after Bob has given them a quick polish. Crosman hammers out of the box are pretty rough. I usually machine my own so I don't have all that galling and they run smoother in the gas tube.
The result will be a much smoother operation and reduced air consumption.
NO PETROLEUM BASED LUBE in or around the air system. It can get explosive!
De-gas/pressurize your Airgun before attempting to work on it.
In order to get the hammer out of the Disco, you will have to remove the breech and barrel.
The trick on a Disco or 2260 is to remove the safety from the trigger group first. You will need a small pick to reach in the trigger group and lift the end of the spring that holds it in.
Remove the stock screw & stock.
Remove the rear trigger screw and breech screw. The end cap holding the hammer spring will pop out and the spring my fly. So be prepared.
Remove the barrel band.
The you can slide the bolt all the way back to get to the .05" hex in the loading port of the breech. Careful, the heads strip easy. I have a straight .05" hex that I insert into the hex and give it a little love tap with a brass hammer before attempting to un-screw. It will tend to loosen it up just a hair so I don't strip the head out.
Watch for the transfer seal under the breech. Should be 2 pieces. one rubber and one steel. Rubber goes against the valve.
(advise 1/4" poly tube tx port mod here)
Once the breech & barrel are off, then slide the hammer all the way back and lift the cocking pin. The hammer will then slide right out.
Polish up the hammer and assembly is the reverse.
Want a hammer spring/power adjuster?
While you have it apart... Get a "hammer spring guide" and take a trip to your local hardware store for a screw that will fit in the end cap just long enough that when you have it tightened down from the rear that you leave at least 1/8" space in the spring area of the cap. If the screw is too long you run the risk of the guide slipping out and binding everything up.
Install the hammer spring first then the guide to the rear. Wait to install the adjusting screw till after assembly.
Then you can per-tension your hammer spring for mo-power!  |
Great Info! I'd love to take it all apart and learn more about the gun, but I wait until warranty is expired before I'll do that... In the mean time, I'll keep shooting, hoping that it improves over time. If not, back to Bloomfield it'll go! |
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_________________ RWS 350 Mag .22
Leapers 3-12X40
Gamo Shadow .177
Benjamin Discovery .22 |
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