 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | Is this entirely correct? |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:37 am |
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| NZ Shooter |
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| Location: Dunedin, New Zealand |
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Somewhere recently I recall reading a post on an airgun forum regarding trigger pull on a springer. The poster asked how to lighten up the second-stage pull. The answer was " remove the trigger return spring, as that is the only reason triggers are so hard to pull" Now, surely that is not entirely right, is it? Wouldn't the mainspring strength and sear setup be the factors that dictate how heavy a partcular guns' pull is ? I'm looking to lighten up my Patriot trigger, but something tells me not to rip out the trigger return spring. |
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_________________ Webley Patriot .22 @ 28 fpe
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:15 am |
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| radar |
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| Location: Des Moines, Iowa, USA |
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It is entirely incorrect in my opinion. I'm no expert here, but I believe the trigger has to have a return force to reset it to the postion on the first sear. A lot if not most of the pull on a trigger is from the engagement of the trigger to sear, not just the trigger spring. Often these need to be smoothed up carefully--but you have to know what you are doing to avoid a trigger than can allow the gun to discharge accidentally or unexpectedly.
As for the spring itself, I've been told that reducing the trigger spring rate is the best way to reduce trigger pull. |
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_________________ It's never too late to have a happy childhood. |
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:46 am |
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| Slavia |
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That sounds like the Theoben/Gamo/B18/Crosman trigger, where the trigger blade acts on a secondary sear or "strut." The trigger swings through the first part of its arc without touching anything (so-called "first stage") and then finally contacts the strut ("second stage"). The adjustment screw disengages the strut, so the place where the transition happens could be a long way from discharge or dangerously close.
Since the trigger blade doesn't touch anything else (at first), it needs to have its own spring to return it all the way forward. Removing the trigger blade spring doesn't influence sear engagement (the strut and sear have their own springs), and its removal will lighten the trigger. On the down side, when you put your finger on it you won't know how much "first stage" you have left, since the trigger isn't being pushed all the way forward. Once you contact the strut and enter the "second stage" it will be lighter.
The GTR/GTX replacement triggers are designed to always be in contact with the strut, so the trigger blade spring isn't needed because the strut spring can push the trigger forward. They accomplish the first to second stage transition with a geometry change (Like changing gears on a bicycle). |
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