Air Gun Home :: View topic - 2240 breech on a 2300T to make it lighter.

loudhvx · New Member

Hi all,
I have a 2300T and really like it. I'd like to get one for my girlfriend too, but when she tried mine, she felt it was a little heavy. It is a lot heavier than the 3576 plastic revolver she has been using. I noticed that the 2240 is even lighter than the 3576, and I figure it has to be due to the shorter barrel and the small plastic breech, compared to the 2300t's long steel breech, steel sight, and longer barrel.

The 2240 weighs 1.81 lbs.
The 3576 weighs 2.00 lbs.
The 2300T weighs 2.66 lbs.

I figure I could get a 2300t and put on a 2240/1377 breech to lighten it up.

Or would it be cheaper to get a 2240 and put on a 2300 barrel, bolt, valve, and hammer? (Somehow I doubt it.)

I have to stick with .177 where I live.

The next part of my question is... on the earlier 2240, the screw holding the breech on was located at the tip of the bolt when the bolt was open. On the 2300, it's under the bolt. Did the later 2240's get updated with a new screw location in the breech? I'd like to not have the screw interfering with pellet loading if possible. Has anyone taken a 2300 apart to see if it has two threaded screw holes for the front of the breech? Apparently some 2240s did so they could use the larger steel breech as well.

Also, does anyone have a good plastic breech for a 2240 they want to get rid of, with the later screw location?

If it works out, I'll have a steel breech and MIM sight to unload.

Sorry it's such a long post.
Thanks,

SMP · Silver Status Member

In my opinion between the barrel and the breech on a 2240 the plastic breech is the weaker of the two components so there is probably no gains to be had by putting the 2300 barrel in the plastic breach.

Same would be true to put the plastic breach on a 2300. you would loose the performance of the better barrel.

As far as I know the 2240/13xx have the screw in the loading ramp...yes it's a pain.

Your best bang for your buck will likely be to buy a 2240 and spend the money on trigger work...that's where the most performance gains are.

Unless you plan on putting on a long barrel, 14 18 or 24" there is nothing to be gained in hammer and valve. The barrel is'nt long enough to realize the potential of the stock valve

loudhvx · New Member

Thanks SMP.
I'm not looking for any performance gains, just less weight.

I want to use the 2300 valve and hammer (or just hammer spring?) to keep the efficiency. From what I've read, the 2240 valve uses a lot more volume. My 2300 gets a lot of shots per cartridge, and I wouldn't want to lose that. It has enough power as is.

I think I'm going to just get a 1377c/PC77 and try to use that breech on a 2300. If it works, then I'll put the steel breech on the 1377 and sell it.

By the way, I did confirm the 2300t has two holes in the air tube for the breech mount, so I think the plastic breech should bolt on even though the screw hole is forward on the plastic breech.

SMP · Silver Status Member

PM me I have a 1377 plastic breach I dont need.

loudhvx · New Member

Thanks for the offer SMP. I think I'm just going to lighten up the 2300 breech and see where that gets me. If it fails, it'll give me an excuse to get an aluminum breech from some of the sources that came up on google.

I really want to keep the loading ramp clear of that screw, and I think (but not sure) the ridgidity of a metal breech will be better than the plastic one for better accuracy.

Anyone have recommendations for a short, light, aluminum breech for 2240/1377/2300? (No scope dovetails needed.)