Air Gun Home :: View topic

mneumiller · Member

I finally found enough time on a nice day to get out and start getting my RWS 350 magnum in .177 zeroed. I sat down to start shooting and noticed that the scope was loose, guess I should have checked it at home. I bought the rifle new out of Cabela's bargain cave so it was already assembled with an RWS 4x scope and a base that has a stud to lock into the rifle's top.

After tightening it all up it is still a little loose in the left to right manner on the rifle. Any ideas what to do to fix that or is it normal? It's all snuggled down good, I'm afraid to go tighter and strip things.

So after it got put back together, I started shooting, and got it dead on at 25 feet. Does anyone know what that zero is down range?

Thanx,

Matt

sniper · Silver Status Member

it should be a one piece mount.
it should have double sided tape
inside the rings making contact with the scope.
is it? does it? the tape is CRITICAL-especially in such
a heavy recoiling springer.

there are some variables with zero, bob will probably
speak, if your zeroed at 10 yards you'll be back on zero
@ around 35ish.

WELCOME!!

mneumiller · Member

No, there was no tape. The rings are a two piece type I would expected to find on a deer gun. Four screws hold the top to the bottom. I made them as snug as I make any other scope mount, so I can't imagine any slippage problems.

So if ten yards gives a 35yr zero, 25 ft or 8yds should give about 30yds? I can live with that until I get time at a proper range and not a ditch.

rsterne · Moderator

You don't give a velocity or pellet type.... so I'll make a couple of assumptions.... 1st assumption is scope about 1.5" above bore....

900 fps with a good round nose pellet, 8 yd. zero gives about a 65 yard second zero....

Same velocity with a wadcutter, 8 yd. zero would give about a 50 yard second zero....

VERY approximate, of course....

Bob

donec · Senior Member

mneumiller · Member

I have been trying to find a link to the mount I have so I can show you all what I've got. The closest I can get, and I don't recall the name of it, is that it is a kind of one piece B-Square unit that has two locating pins and the rings will twirl around and get tighter or looser. There are three screws used to clamp it to the dove tail, and four button hear screws per ring. It's hard to describe accurately.

Anyway, the movement I have when everything is snuggled up is that the entire mount can be rocked left to right on the dovetail. I will have to look at things again when I am home, but I think if I remove a small amount of material from the top of the clamping side, it will grip better and stop the rocking.

Now, should I decide to go for a new mount, I have read something about droop mounts. I got this scope to zero at a short 8 yards fine, so do I really need a droop mount or can I just get any mount for an RWS?

Thanks again,

Matt

rsterne · Moderator

You would normally sight in a bit low at 8 yards.... so you don't need a droop mount....

Bob

donec · Senior Member

mneumiller · Member

Well, this is the closest I can find to the mount that I have....

http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/B_Square_17501_Interlock_Adjustable_AA_1_Pc_Mount_w_1_Rings_13mm_Dovetail_Fits_BSA_Rifles/253

The difference is that my mount only has three screws to clamp it to the rifle; and I have to assume it was meant for an RWS as it has two locating pins.

I really think either the tooth that locks into the dove tail is to short or the wrong angle or the base of the rail is just a touch to wide. Nothing I shouldn't be able to fix with a dremel tool or file.

Thanx for the help guys,

Matt N

donec · Senior Member

mneumiller · Member

yeah, I know.

It was just a link to the closest to what I have.

This weekend I'll play with it and see if I can't tighten it up. If I can't, what would be a good replacement?

rsterne · Moderator

Any similar 1-piece mount for an 11mm dovetail and a 1" scope tube.... I wouldn't get 2 individual rings, the 1-piece mount is more secure on a magnum springer....

Bob

fritz · Silver Status Member

The best thing to do with such a rifle is to get the Leaper's base which fits over the factory one and converts it to a picatinny. Namely because there is no provision for a legitimate stop pin.

The plane the new rail would sit on can also be adjusted to compensate for droop.

Definitely use the double sided tape, blue loctite, adequately tighten. Let sit for at least 24 hours for the loctite to cure. Also check all other visible screws on the rifle, so the action fits securely into the stock. The barrel block pivot screw should also be snugged, do not over tighten or the friction will increase cocking effort. Properly mount the scope, too.

You probably do have the wrong size (13mm/11mm) mounts.

The scope that the rifle came with isn't the best out there either. Adding a heavier scope will help to tame the rifle. Make sure you get one that is springer rated or it will be getting returned very shortly.

Search the "artillery hold". IE gripping the gun only enough to get and hold it on target, consistently. Letting the gun recoil freely. Takes practice, but is the only accurate way to shoot a springer.

mneumiller · Member

What would springer rated scopes be? Anything that would work on a .22lr? The few shots I have ran through this haven't seemed to be terribly hard hitting to me. I actually haven't noticed any recoil, though I know its there.

So a 11mm dovetail to a picatinny and then normal rings is the ticket? How does the extra height above the barrel for the scope affect things? I know on rifles when you mount the scope to high you start to lob the rounds in, making an extreme arc to your flight path and making mid range shots more difficult. I want to keep it shooting as flat as possible.

I dare say these things are almost more finicky than my firearms......

sniper · Silver Status Member

yes way more finicky. a springer is the most difficult type of gun to shoot
period. spring rated scopes have reinforced innards to handle heavy
vibration.(they will say-springer rated) any cheap scope works fine on a .22LR.

a magnum springer is harder on a scope than a .30-06.