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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:07 am |
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Greenangel |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 12 |
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thanks for the fast response must have cought u at a good time
am gonna finish the mod tomorrow
thought i was jsut gonna do it but then i realized how grainy the grease was and i just cant put it back together with that grainy shat...
am gonna go to honda and try get that moly 60 grease..
should i just put a thin coat on all the internals...????
am gonna replace those washers with brass or steel whichever i can fine in this hell hole called fort st john
for anyone who reads this i cant express enough how shatty the china grease is
i dont think they ever removerd the metal shavings after they machined this stuff
just get some grease on your fingers and rub them together and it feels like sandpaper
brutal
more posts to come |
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_________________ GreenAngel
Just a power hungry fiend |
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:18 am |
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AirGunEric |
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007 |
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Moly grease is still grease. You want to wipe it on all the parts, then rub it in with a reasonably clean cloth- the idea here is to "burnish" the metal with the moly and leave as little grease as possible (grease will just gum the gun up) and then actually lube it with 20 or 30 weight engine oil (non-detergent type) if your local auto parts store doesn't have non-detergent oil, you can also use air compressor oil (for the compressor itself. not air tool oil). Molybdenum is just a surface coat, more a "spacer" than any sort of lubricant and grease is just too thick- especially in the colder months of the year. So, you want to get that gray coat on things from the moly and eliminate as much of the grease as possible. Sounds tricky, but it's not as bad as it sounds.
As for the "Special Chinese Lube"- mine wasn't gritty- but it was rather wax-like in its consistency which was also no good. |
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:36 am |
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Greenangel |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 12 |
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thanks a lot
just dont want to mess anything up
i like to know fully what i am doing before i do it
now i got into it i had a bunch of questions and the responce time was awesome
definately the best airgun forum i have found yet by far
sure am glad i finally filled out the user name password thing
must have passed this website 10 times before i filled it out
awesome site
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_________________ GreenAngel
Just a power hungry fiend |
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:35 am |
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Mar |
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 428 |
Location: Victoria, BC |
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I'm looking forward at seeing more of this and the results. I'll be taking mine apart pretty soon for a good clean up and such.
As for lubing the insides, wouldn't a Teflon base lubricant be the thing to use? |
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:59 am |
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AirGunEric |
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"Teflon" based lubricants are dubious at best. Look here for a bit of info:
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=586
Also- most lubricants of this type are thin oils- as in too think to work well in an airgun. Molybdenum on the other hand- can be "cold" applied just be rubbing it on parts. |
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:03 pm |
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Mar |
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007 |
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Interesting read, thanks for the links. |
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:50 pm |
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Mar |
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So...Eric...How's the rifle shooting now with the new trigger? I can only assume it's way better, can't wait to receive mine.
In stock form right now I seem to shoot better basically shooting off hand, with elbow resting than of a rest, but that could be my shooting style also.
Mine you, it's been awhile since I shot a springer. Got close to 500 shots through mine now, smokes a bit still but not as bad as I first got it. I think you were right about dieseling as it seems to have gotten better.
I was at an auto parts store today and saw what they call rubber lube, ever heard of it? Apparently it's good for o-rings and lubrication in general, what do you think of that?
Well you're keeping me in suspense here...need to hear more. |
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:14 pm |
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Mar |
Veteran Member |
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007 |
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Location: Victoria, BC |
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Update: Just took three shots, one with Cr pointed, one Cr wad, one with cr Premier HP. Target: Beeman 25ft target, First shot ponted, 9 ring, might have touch the bullseye. Second was the wadcutterin the 8 ring, third shot, the hp, Bullseye.
Not much room for error on these targets but again this was resting one arm on my computer chair firing 25ft away. Not the steadiest rest by all account, not the best trigger and not the best scope out there.
But...I like that, only wish I could do that all the time. Seems like all three pellets, at that distance agree with the Phantom anyway. |
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:21 pm |
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Greenangel |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 12 |
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allright so i got the piston cut down i decided on 45mm
cause it didnt look like there was much more room at the front of the piston to carve that hole out a full 50
got it all back together and just fired a test shot and it sounds way more powerfull
trigger seemed a little harder to pull probably cause of the notch i made was a bit different from the one that they punch out for the trigger
am just gonna have a quick bite of supper then am gonna head out and shoot off a few rounds
will let ya know how it goes |
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_________________ GreenAngel
Just a power hungry fiend |
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 11:36 pm |
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AirGunEric |
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Good to hear you've got it going in the direction you want it. The harder trigger pull may be your design (did you take any pictures of your modified piston?)- and it could just be that the increased load the trigger pin must support because of the tightly compressed spring. See the post on Pellet testing by Mar- I put a note in there- my enhanced power Phantom needs to be held pretty tight to shoot right- none of this "casual resting" stuff like we've all been told by the masters of air rifle shooting (who it seems, are basing their techniques on low-powered Daisy target rifles shot at 10m targets). |
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:48 pm |
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Greenangel |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 12 |
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i do have a pic but is still on the camera will post it later tonight
had a few problems at first also the gun was not engaging the lock when i would cock it, had to wiggle it a bit
wasn't happy with that so i took it back apart and remeasured the space at the back end of the piston and it was 6.5 mm not the normal 6mm
reground that down a bit with the dremel and got her back together
is amazing now will shoot clean through a 3/4 inch piece of wood i found at the shop
and a friends hadngun was shooting pellets (almost flush ) into the back sliding door on an old farm barn
shot it with mine and it went straight through and through the siding behind it
all who have seen it are going to go and get one they cant believe it
to all who helped thanks
awesome mod
will send pic of modded piston soon |
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_________________ GreenAngel
Just a power hungry fiend |
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:50 pm |
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Greenangel |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 12 |
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also as a note to others who are having trouble reasembly with no spring compressor
put all together and then holdtension at the last ring on that plastic piece then you can insert the trigger then press in rest of the way and push pin through
took a few mins to figure it out but is easy now
have fun modding |
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_________________ GreenAngel
Just a power hungry fiend |
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Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:06 pm |
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Greenangel |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 12 |
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here is a pic of the modded piston
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_________________ GreenAngel
Just a power hungry fiend |
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Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 12:45 am |
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AirGunEric |
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007 |
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Good stuff- that should clarify things for people who weren't able to get a good "visual" idea of what people were talking about. |
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| | | | | | | | | Re: Crosman Phantom 500 vs. 1000 differences | | | | | |
Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:09 pm |
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Mar |
Veteran Member |
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007 |
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Location: Victoria, BC |
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AirGunEric wrote: |
I finally got the camera out and took apart the Phantom 500 (.22 cal de-tuned springer).
Many people, especially in Canada wanted to know exactly what the differences were between the Phantom 500 and the Quest/Phantom 1000.
Well- there aren't that many:
The piston:
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Looking at these pictures, I got to thinking...that might not be a good thing I know.
What about making a dual piston out of the 500? What I'm thinking is making/cutting a new groove and trigger hole like that of a 1000...except 90 degs opposite, on the piston, of the 500. That way you could have a choice of going back in forth, by rotating the piston 90degs, if for some reason you didn't like the mod.
Would that work or make the piston too weak or unsafe? |
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