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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:59 am |
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| wheelgun |
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| Joined: 07 Jan 2010 |
| Posts: 5 |
| Location: texas |
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| what is a lube tune? do you tear down and regrease parts? while I'm here what is deburr tuning?these are dumb questions but i am new to this sport. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:45 am |
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| rsterne |
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| Joined: 15 Jan 2008 |
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| Location: Coalmont, BC |
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When you tear down a Springer, you should deburr all the parts, clean throughly, and then use the proper lubricants sparingly in their appropriate locations....
Everyone will probably gasp, but I use simple (relatively low content) Moly grease on virtually everything.... I wipe the inside of the chamber with Moly engine lube (mostly 30 weight oil) and then remove as much as possible before reassembly.... Yeah, it diesels for a couple shots but it works for me....
Others will chime in with their custom suggestions.... most of which will probably be better than mine.... I could never find any 65-70% Moly paste within 200 miles of here....
Bob |
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_________________ Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal: Too many to count! |
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:30 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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| I use that low-moly grease on the spring in my Slavia 631. It runs smooth and quiet. |
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¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:52 pm |
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| creeper |
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| Location: Ravensdale, WA. |
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The standard issue "interwebnet lube-toon" will typically use Jim Macarri moly paste, JM heavy tar and... that's about it.
Tar on the spring coils and moly on the piston, seal OD and spring ends/guides if any. Some will suggest "burnishing" a dab of moly paste onto the chamber walls.
There are other products that JM sells... the Eurolube for example which is supposedly very much like (or exactly like perhaps?) the lubricants used by Weihrauch, RWS, FWB et al.
Although not recommended on JM brand seals, I tried it on a Cometa piston and seal and it worked just fine... I'm sure there are plenty of folks that would scream sacrilege, but until those folks start buying my guns for me... I'll do what ever blows my skirt up.
Personally... I feel that what lube you choose to use on the piston and seal kinda depends how often you want to take your gun apart and re-lube it.
If you're like me... constantly tinkering with things, then experimenting with lubes is par for the course.
Lubology... ain't it fun!
Cheers,
C |
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_________________ I have a few guns and stuff. |
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:55 pm |
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| Airhawk |
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 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | Re: Deburring |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:12 am |
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| wheelgun |
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| Location: texas |
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| Airhawk wrote: |
| http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-deburring.htm |
i know what deburr means I have worked in a machine shop for 30 years.i was asking for info on what parts in rifle to work on. |
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:15 am |
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| rsterne |
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| Joined: 15 Jan 2008 |
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| Location: Coalmont, BC |
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Deburr anything that the internals can rub against on the inside of the tube.... holes, slots, etc.... also any sharp edges on the piston, cocking arm etc.... It's a good idea to deburr and polish the ends of the main spring as well.... basically anything that rubs together....
Guns with cheap, stamped, trigger parts like a Crosman 22XX will also benefit from deburring and polishing (to at least 800 grit) of all the trigger and hammer contact points....
Bob |
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_________________ Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal: Too many to count! |
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:13 pm |
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| kanyon |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Joined: 09 Aug 2008 |
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| Location: New Zealand |
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All I use is molly paste on the seal /piston / spring ends & trigger.
Then every thing ealse is sprayed with a silicone non throw chain lube
just to stop rust...All my springers have nylon sleeved guides so no spring
lube is needed...just the chain lube to stop rust...
Pete |
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