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Slavia · Moderator

I ran across this one on the Mexican forum "Mexicoarmado" posted by CCGLOCK. You have to join the forum to see the photos (and it's in Spanish), but here's the link just in case:
http://www.mexicoarmado.com/showthread.php?t=78726

It's a two-stage trigger with the trigger blade split in two. Both halves pivot on the same pin, and each has its own spring. One half swings through the entire arc, contacting a pin on the second half just before sear disengagement. You get full sear engagement on cocking, a light "first stage," and then the resistance of both springs in the "second stage."

The photos are of a Mendoza RM 1000. Looking at Pyramydair's Mendoza line, they all list a "two-stage, non-adjustable" trigger - probably the same thing:
http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/show.pl?cmd_rifles=show_guns_manufacturer&Manufacturer=Mendoza

When I saw it my first reaction was that the design could be adapted to the Crosman 22XX and 13XX platforms.

Amigo · Veteran Member

AHA, I've often wonder why I have not seen some sort of double "set" trigger design similar to those used on some muzzle-loaders, adapted to airguns. It looks like, in principle, that is what you have found with this Mexican design.

Now I'm wondering if this design could be easily adapted as a retro fit for use in an ag. like the KL3B-Fastdeer, which has a notoriously heavy pull direct sear. Hmmm..

Slavia, my hat is off to you, your mind never stops Exclamation

Thanks,

Amigo

Slavia · Moderator

Right now my mind is going about how I could make one, given the tools I have available. It seems like a good idea, especially if you have limited space. I have never seen the workings of the Savage "Accutrigger," but it looks to be similar in use.

Amigo · Veteran Member

Yes, and there were also those less sophisticated that used the first trigger to simple reduce sear engagement leaving the second trigger on the "hair".

BTW, check PM ch.#6 sent.

Whew!

Amigo

Amigo · Veteran Member

Slavia:

I'm pondering several different ways to make an adaptation that might improve the direct sear. One, as in the second version you mentioned, using the first half of the trigger to cock the second half. 2nd, using the first to pre-load a spring to assist the second half (as in "bastardized" version of your first iteration). 3rd, using the first half to increase the mechanical advantage of the 2nd half. Or, a combination of them.

As in a good set trigger, my adaptation goal is to reduce the pull weight of the second or "firing" trigger in a direct sear situation in a manner that is both safe and consistently predictable.

In the past, one approach I've used is to take exact dimensions of the existing mechanics and then make an accurate proportioned drawing several times size - space permitting, I prefer 10X. This way even subtle changes and their effects are more readily apparent. Then if and when all is satisfactory, simply moving a decimal point gives me the dims. to machine to. It is a time consuming design method but it often saves a lot of machining and/or hand work time and tends to reduce errors.

Right now I don't know if or when I'll "giter done".

You're the man!

Amigo

Slavia · Moderator

SteveM · Member

That is a very interesting design. I have a black powder rifle that has a single set trigger that I really like. It's pretty simple; once you've cocked the lock, you can either pull the trigger with four pounds or so of pull, or push it forward for a much, much lighter trigger (I've never measure it, but it must be a few ounces).

Thanks for the post of this particular trigger design.

Amigo · Veteran Member

Slavia:

Slavia · Moderator

I use MS Picture It!, but there are certainly others.

Since you really only need a profile of the parts, a scanner will work in place of a digital camera. Scan/photograph all the parts in one frame so they all are the same size relative to each other.

donwalk · Veteran Member

my savage .308 12fv has the accu-trigger...it works VERY well.

Slavia · Moderator