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packrat · Senior Member

I really liked the looks of the Crosman Raven and the 2250 XT.. one was too slow (in fps), the other wasn't a breakbarrel. So, my question is this: is it possible to cut down the wood stock of my new StormXT (purchased yesterday) so that it somewhat resembles either the Raven or the 2250xt ?? I bought the Storm with this in mind...would have bought a Phantom, but figured the synthetic stock on it was hollow, so I went with the Storm......solid wood stock. Plans are to give it a "futuristic" look, and cut 2 inches from barrel. What say ye men? How much wood can be removed without having to worry about strength of stock? I did a "search" but found nothing that answered my questions...TIA for any help/advice.

fritz · Silver Status Member

Cutting wood from the butt shouldn't weaken it at all.

The stock is more likely to break around the pistol grip. Some people have put screws through the pistol grip for added strength, although you could put on on the bottom of the butt.

If you cut the barrel, make sure that its as close to square as humanely possible. Then it will need to be polished and recrowned. Wet/dry sandpaper (fine grits) put over a bolt head in a drill (or lathe) and then used to angle the last bit of the bore.

Slavia · Moderator

packrat · Senior Member

Thanks a bunch for the quick replies!! My intentions are to copy the 2250xt to a large degree..I just love that look-even at my "advanced"age ! The barrel cutting/crowning will be done by a friend that's done gunsmith type stuff for years..told me to bring steaks for the grill, and he'd take care of the rest. I intend to watch and maybe pick-up enough info to be confident trying it on my next project. Thanks again for the information. I'm liking this site already Cool

Put 3 rounds in a 1 1/2 inch circle, I think the scope is dead on,( or at least very close !) and that I need to work on my hold and get more accustomed to the trigger. (Done at 18 yards) Had to stop and go for Dr. appt., but will play with it some more tomorrow morning. I made targets on my computer and can have ALL the copies I need. Some of those I saw in stores are reeediculous in price !
What range(s) are you guys sighting in your scope for hunting and plinking?? I can go up to 50 yards in my back yard, but I'm thinking that's too far for my 1000 fps airgun.....what range is realistic ??

fritz · Silver Status Member

This is a good time to mention that ALL petroleum based cleaners, solvents, and lubricants should be kept very, very far away from airguns.

They are fine on powderburners, but can cause major harm to airguns. Particularly in your case, dieseling in the piston. Imagine turning your gun into a diesel engine for a single stroke... not good. Invest in silicone oils for wiping the gun down, and use water based cleaners on the internals.

Keep in mind that for long term storage, it would be a good idea to use a VERY fine amount of petrol based lube to keep the metal parts from rusting. Make sure to wipe any excess off that could potentially run (or ooze) down into the chamber. Yes, it is contradictory to say that...

Slavia · Moderator

packrat · Senior Member

Alrighty then !!! I am in your debt for all that info...GOOD STUFF ! So, I guess I need to move my target hanger out some more (18 vs. 25yds.) Having had my last pellet gun back in the early '60s, I had no idea of the capabilities of today's version !! Most encouraging I must say. Down here in Georgia, we don't really have "winter".... I ride motorcycles year round if that helps describe it...last time I can remember snow was in 1989...about 4 inches and was gone the next day. VERY rarely does the temp go down to the teens. So, I won't have to go into "winter" mode..
thanks for all the good info. Man I'm SO grateful I found this site!
As far as lubes and such, the owner's manual calls for RM oil, which I can not find locally...I DID swab out barrel before I ever fired it with some good ol' Hoppes #9...but only used it inside the barrel and ran patches through it until they came out clean/white. And I must say..the barrel was more than a little dirty, straight from the factory. Any particular brand name for this silicone oil? TIA.

packrat · Senior Member

So, yesterday I drew blood.. Got a crow at 46 yards ( I measured it with surveyor tape) about 35 feet up a tree..This got me all inpressed with my StormXT. So, decided to modify the stock like I'd planned to do from the beginning. I won't bother you guys w/details...here's 2 pix of the rough cut-out...then 2 after I got it dressed down ready for a finish...Took 3 hours, but well worth the time in my opinion.
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after a lot of sanding...
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Now, since I want stock to be black (stealth look) what do I need to use for a finish? Dull NOT shiny) I have no idea whatsoever , woodworking isn't my thing. I don't suppose there's such a thing as black wood stain, huh?? Mr. Green

sniper · Silver Status Member

yes there is black stain.
http://www.ugl.com/zarWoodFinishing/zaroilWoodStain.php. click on stain. it's what i use. or you can take black oil
based paint and cut it with paint thinner ("naptha" added will speed dry time) to your desired opacity.
1to 10 ratio (play around on a piece of sample wood)

i also like satin oil based polyurethane (spray can)

very durable and scratch resistent.

sand the wood for 30 min with 220.

stain. let dry over night before clearing.

do at least 5 coats of clear after your desired number of stain coats with the final sanding on coat 4 for being with minimum 220 grit or finer.
the more stain the more opacity.

use fast dry poly if you can (less dirt in the finish)

good luck!!

packrat · Senior Member

WOW !! Shall head for the store, first thing in the morning..Sounds like just what I want! Thanks.

sniper · Silver Status Member

i forgot to add. when spraying, bend a coat hanger and hang the
stock from the trigger area so all sides are hit.

done right it will look like polished glass. Mr. Green

packrat · Senior Member

Got all the stuff I needed, and hurried back home....sanded stock down until all clearcoat was off (took longer than 30 minutes, by the way) brushed some ebony stain on and it literally ran off like "water off a duck's back". DAMMITMAN ! SO>>>>another 1 1/2 hr. trip back to town...got sanding discs for orbital sander.....took about an hour, but I got it ALL down to the bare wood...which is how it has to be in order for the stain to penetrate...I did not know this...I DO NOW Crying or Very sad

I post this to perhaps save someone else from making this same dumb-a$$ goof !! Hey when I said "wood isn't my thing" . I really meant it..I know nothing about woodworking, but I am learning now, yeah baby!!
Thanks SNIPER for the heads up on ebony stain and spray clearcoat stuff!! Will post a pic when I get finished. THIS SITE ROCKS Mr. Green

sniper · Silver Status Member

packrat · Senior Member

It's all good..learned something new at my advanced age... I used 180 (I think) to do the strip-sanding with my orbital sander, then went to 220. Smooooooth I say !! got 1 coat of stain on, supposed to wait 24 before applyin anymore. I gotta say that I'm likin' the way it looks with only 1 coat a LOT, ( looks like some "exotic wood") but will know for sure after first coat gets completely dry. Inside, where I cut out part of the stock, might be a good place to mount one of those strips that hold pellets for easy access,hmmmm....... thanks again for all your help!

kanyon · Silver Status Member

I used black fence stain on a B11 stock then sprayed
it with clear from a rattle can....
came out real great... Shocked

I was