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23ib0d0n · Moderator

I like it

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251486.htm

cw · Banned

Very nice!

CW

AirGunEric · Site Admin

That is an oil (stain) type-product. Do you wax the stock as well?

23ib0d0n · Moderator

Royal
London
Oil
Something ARH mixes that has more 'working time' than tung. Since it has been 90°F here, tung dries way to fast.

Have another week to wait before buffing it with Stock Mud.

The RLO did an awesome job bringing the highlights up. When the RLO is completely cured, then we'll see how much more Stock Mud brightens it up.

Cracko · Guest

A very fine job.

QUESTION : I am refinishing the beech stock from my R9 (HW95). I have applied chemical stripper ( the good, dangerous kind) repeatedly, but have been unable to remove all of the dark pigment from the end grain areas. I can't sand any deeper without changing the contour of the wood surface. The stock looks uneven in color and I am afraid that if I use another pigmented (opaque solids) stain, it will just look the same ; really uneven.
So, my proposed strategy is to use a dye (a transparent solution without opaque solids) such as Birchwood Casey walnut "stain" in an effort to darken the light areas without further darkening of the end grain areas resulting in an overall even, dark color. I am aware that all dyes fade when exposed to UV light. Maybe I could add a UV blocker to my oil finish; but where would I get it ? Sound reasonable ? Advice and opinions welcome. Thanks in advance Cracko

23ib0d0n · Moderator

I put a wipe of RLO on, let it cure overnight, then the next day I added a few drops -for contrast- of Early American {Minwax 230} to the RLO and let that cure. Could have been better, but if I want a 'perfect' stock, then I'll shape, inlet and checker an old 124 take off stock . . . but then it won't be a 'shooter' anymore. Shocked

Slavia · Moderator

Another strategy might be to contact a manufacturer (eg., Minwax). I wouldn't rely on store workers, since they are out to sell what they have in stock.

I read somewhere that long ago they used a mix of chewing tobacco, rust, and ammonia to stain gunstocks. It may still look like heck, but it would smell unique.

Cracko · Guest

Thanx 23ib0d0n. I'll try that on some old beech coat hangers to test the results. By the way, what does "23ib0d0n" mean ?

Slavia, have you ever heard of the technique where ammonia vapor is used to chemically alter and color wood ? Is this that to which you are referring ?

cw · Banned

Please tell more about coloring with ammonia.

broommaster2000 · Moderator

Godo Job, Don. Keep up the good work! Mr. Green

Roy · Veteran Member

cw : The technique of coloring wood with ammonia vapor is called "fuming", and was made famous by Gustav Stickley in the early 1900's. He produced some very fine oak furniture. The oak wood was placed in a small "tent" along with an open container of ammonia solution. The ammonia reacts with the tannins in the oak wood, chemically altering the surface and changing the color. This is really all I know ; I wonder if it would work on the walnut and beech in our gunstocks ? It has been suggested that tannic acid can be applied to other kinds of wood prior to fuming, with the same results. I have never tried this. Maybe some experimentation is in order !
Roy