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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Antique, Collector and Novelty Airguns » Hakim Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 5:42 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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It seems like every time I turn around there is a new challenge to resolve. My impulse is to slap the thing together and start shooting, but I figure I'll regret it later. So - the details are falling in line one by one.

For example, the wood around the butt plate screws was compressed and worn. So I went back and filled/redrilled them.

My source came up with the rear sling mount, and of course the holes I had drilled for my homebrew model didn't match up- so I had to fill/redrill one of them. The mount didn't come with screws, so I chose machine screws and anchors. I knew I would have to get hardware store screws and reshape the heads, and machine screws spin truer than wood screws. (I spin the screw in the drill press while shaping the head with a Dremel tool.) I narrowed the mount so a QD sling swivel would fit (it's an underlever, so you almost have to disconnect the sling to cock the gun). Plus I routed the slot in the wood so the mount would sit closer to being flush with the stock contour. Instead of using blueing liquid on these parts I heated them on the stove and oil-quenched them.

I've also been busy with some of the other parts. The cocking arm was a challenge, because it's riveted together with lots of nooks and crannies. Plus it had lots of Egyptian dirt, grease, and rust. Also in the photograph are the stock end cap, the cap retainer, the original stock/barrel band, and the loading tap.







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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 6:37 pm Reply with quote
23ib0d0n
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So far, looking very nice. I can certainly understand how you anticipate finishing it, so you can actually try it out. Wink
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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 11:58 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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If you can help it, don't get rid of anything. I bought a tap and die set in 1987. Some of the sizes have been worn out and replaced. Some have just been sitting in the box - like the die that fits the Hakim's two main mounting screws (metric, of course). The threads were in sad shape, but that die had been waiting patiently for 20 years for its moment of glory.

I think a realistic goal for shooting the thing is before the snow flies. Which may be September, who knows.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 1:22 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Most of the project has been like this:

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 10:53 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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When I got the stock, it was in three pieces. One of the splits was in front and on either side of the trigger guard. After gluing it back together I ran small dowels across the split (see photo). Well, O.K., they weren't dowels. They were kebab skewers. But they work.

Then I noticed that the steel "receiver" had two sharp edges right where the cracks originated. I relieved those edges. I also noticed that there was a gap between the action and the wood just above the forward mounting screw. When that screw was tightened, it would not just clamp wood to metal. It would attempt to move wood across a small divide. In an attempt to distribute the force of the screws across more surface area, I bedded pillars around the mounting screws. So now there is a direct metal-to-metal link from the screw heads to the receiver.

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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:04 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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More progress.

The bore isn't too bad. There are a couple of small pits, but generally it is nice and shiny. I polished the muzzle crown too.

The transfer port is the same size as the bore. "Won't that let things fall back into the compression tube," you ask? Yes, it did. I fished two pieces of lead out of the cylinder head. The rest of the pellet was gone, so on at least one occasion this gun was an air shotgun. I'll have to be careful to not stand the gun on its butt when I flip the loading tap shut.

There was an intact pellet in the tap when I took it apart, also.







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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:43 pm Reply with quote
23ib0d0n
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Slavia wrote:
Is this the loading tap? Shocked
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 5:00 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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No, those are the pellet pieces that I took out of the compression tube (smashed flat by the piston).

The loading tap is a tapered cylinder with a hole through it, located between the piston and the bore. You rotate the hole to vertical and drop a pellet in from above. Then you rotate the cylinder 90 degrees so the pellet is pointed down the bore.



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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 6:34 pm Reply with quote
broommaster2000
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Interesting. I like this thread as one of the best now. Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 11:39 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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I think I forgot to mention that the tap lever was bent inward, as though it had been dropped with the lever open. I figured that if I tried to bend it back, I'd just wind up breaking a part that can't be replaced. So out came the Dremel, a file, and some abrasive cloth. About 1/16" was removed.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 10:14 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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More detail on the loading tap.

My source didn't have a rear sight to give me, but he did have a partial one (that he borrowed from someone else) to copy. I elected to adapt the sight from my Slavia 631 - it was just sitting around after being replaced by a scope. If I'm lucky it will be near the right height, but I'll leave the front sight for the last task of the project in case surgery is required.

The piston and seal went in with about the same resistance as the old seal coming out, so I said good enough and left it alone.

Maccari moly paste on the piston, spring, guides, and seal. PTFE grease on the tap.









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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:20 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Coming down the home stretch, but I need help. Anybody out there know about tap loaders?

Since all I have left is the front sling swivel and the front sight, I thought I'd try it out. It won't shoot! (Join me now, all of you, in a rousing chorus of expletives.) The pellet doesn't leave the tap.

However, if I press just a little on the tap (see picture) the pellet comes flying out just fine. The tap is held in place with spring tension, and can move sideways up to a millimeter. It seems to me that the hole in the tap is not aligned with the breech end of the bore, and the pellet is hanging up trying to leave the tap. (I'm using RWS pointed pellets.)

My impulse is to make very thin shims, and move the tap until I get the best results (using a chronograph, and perhaps capturing the pellets for inspection). But then since the tap is tapered, shimming it out will cause an air leak. If I have to compromise, I'll take the leak over not working at all.

Does anyone know of a more elegant solution?






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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:15 pm Reply with quote
23ib0d0n
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Now I'm starting to wonder if the material removed from the tap handle had something to do with tap port alignment. Eek
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:12 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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That's a good thought. If it is indeed true, then my guess would be that it was a field repair that failed:

1. The finish on the tap and hole look like they have been lapped together, rather than simply cut (suggesting they were designed to mate closely).
2. There were no wear marks on the compression tube where the tap handle would scrape, and when I got it the tap would bind about 30 degrees before closing (and would not close completely).
3. In the photos I found of other guns, it looks like the tap handles rest along side the compression tube, and no wear marks are evident.
4. I find it hard to believe that a company like Anschutz would go to the trouble of lapping a tapered part and then rely on bending a fairly large piece for adjustment.

I'm not discounting your idea; I'm just trying to think through why it might be that way and how I could do it better. Thanks for the input.




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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:33 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Plan "B" is so simple I should have thought of it - talk to the guy who gave me the parts.

I ran into him at work last night, and he said he has several taps laying around (from parts guns, like mine). Maybe one will work.

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